Wondering if there are any other options out there that will be a easy replacement for my muncie such as a borg or t10. I heard that the t10 trans are the same dimensions as the muncie but i cant find any supporting evidence that I can just bolt it up. I have a 69 skylark 455, with a muncie m21. I know i should have a wider geared muncie but that's what i had at the time. I'm looking for something that will have wider gearing and that will hold up to the torque or a BBB. This M21 isnt sounding to good at this time.
The M20 had about a 2.52 first gear. If it was a 65 it had a 2.56, if I recall. You can buy one with those ratios or even higher. The one you have is a 2.20 I suspect.
I would have a good M21 built. I have had M20, M21 and currently a roxk crusher M22. No matter which you choose, havea reputable builder do the job. Be sure to upgrade to steel mid plate, sealed front bearing and a drain plug if the case doesn't already have one in it. Here's a link to great information. http://www.muncie4speed.com Cheers!
My car has a Power Brute Super T-10 swapped in place of the original Muncie. I did not do the installation but I've had it in and out four times in 20 sumthin years. However, it seems like a perfect fit. I doubt there were any installation issues except that the reverse/steering column lockout mechanism (and necessarily the reverse light) is disfunctional. There is no evidence of hacked-up tunnel; and the shifter boot screw-holes look original, as do the crossmember holes on the frame. I have a standard BOP bellhousing. You'd probably need the correct shifter - I would not trust that the Hurst Competition Plus is exact between the Muncie and the T-10. If dimensions are the same the driveshaft should be fine - the output spline might also be different. The Super T-10 is a 26 spline input shaft; I think all three Muncies are 10 spline. That being the case your clutch driven disc won't work. That gives you a pretty good list of items to confirm for yourself. HTH
$1800 shipped will get you my Liberty m22 with ALL the good stuff Auto gear case,cat iron.midplate etc etc retails for $2500+ship has about 500miles on it rated to 650hp stock ratio but I see no real need in needing a steep first gear behind anything with any real power
Ok, ill look into that stuff. I believe there might be a gearing issue in the trans as well. I have 342's in my rear dif. and I'm at 5500 RPM maybe going 100 mph..... seems slow. Although i cannot get my speedo over 55 mph anymore , its malfunctioning.
Also when i initially did this complete drive train swap conversion i started off with 373:1 rear end ratio and i was around 2500-2700 rpm at around 50-60 mph. What could cause this? i have all 4 gears but i almost feel that the person i purchased the muncie from put the wrong gears in. He told me that this transmission was set up for a race car prior to me buying and only had 2 gears ,2nd and 3rd or 3rd and 4th ....something like that so I'm wondering if he just put whatever gears into it that he had on hand. To make up for the slow top end speed i put larger tires on the back as a bandaid for the time being since i was drained of cash from the build .
That doesn't sound right at all. I swapped out to 3.89 gears because I was only turning 4800rpm at 108mph with the 3.42's. And that was with a short 26" tire. 5500rpm in 4th should be a minimum 124mph with 3.42's (and even faster with a taller tire) With 3.73's and a 26" tire, 2,700rpm would put you at 56mph (and 114 at 5,500rpm). I wonder if the guy jacked up the shift linkage and you are only getting to 3rd gear, because unless is a later NV series transmission, 4th gear is 1:1.
Yeah, something sounds wacky with your gearing. I'd say if you're going to pull it anyway to replace it, open it up and take a look first. These transmissions are surprisingly easy to work on. I rebuilt my Muncie (wide ratio) with the typical upgrades (iron midplate, torque lock sliders, etc) just to get me by for a year then fully intend on putting in an autogear super m22 with their wide ratio gear set. I did a ton of research on builders, they seem to be the ticket. My car won't see track time till I make the swap, don't think the stock case would survive sticky tires.
That's what I have. The M22 with the wide gearset. I love the whine. Its been bulletproof, and I treat it very poorly! For the money its the best bang for the buck. Any factory M22 is 2-3k, and a decent rebuilt M20 or 21 is a little over a grand. the auto gear is a no brainer..
I'm wondering if it's even possible to outfit that trans with anything but the right gears... I do have 4 different speeds lol but I've just been so burnt out from the work this car took I just wanted to drive it for a bit before having to get to this point of wondering wth is wrong with this gearing . I'm running 275/60r15 on the rear so maybe around a 26-27 inch tire. So if I jack the car up and mark the drive shaft I should get 1 rotation for every rotation of the engine. Maybe that's what I will look at today. I'm going to look into other complete transmissions since I don't have much knowledge or these Muncie's . Plus if I wanted to make it wide rAtio then the gears themselves would be most of the cost of a new one . I'm guessing . Thank you everyone I will report back with the finding of 1:1 ratio Check.
What are you trying to determine, the transmission final drive ratio or the rear gear ratio? In top gear, a 1 to 1 transmission gear will produce one turn of the ouyput shaft for every turn of the intput shaft. An overdrive will produce more than one rotation of the output shaft per rotation of the input shaft.
