Desparately Need Instructions for Disc Brake Swap

Hey everyone

I just purchased a disc brake kit to convert my front Drums to Disc. The kit was supposed to come with an instructional video, but I cant get it to work on my PC or DVD player so I have a bit of a problem I desperately need some instructions for installation. I get the basics of how it goes together, but things like Torque specs and how the new proportioning valve work is a problem and I have the car apart and ready to put the pieces on.

If anyone knows of instructions on-line, or as some they can scan/e-mail to me, it would be a lifesaver. The kit Im using is from The Right Stuff Detailing for their GM A Bodys.

Thanks!

Albert

 

Lets see if this works.
1. Start with the car up on jackstands and the front wheels off so your drum brakes are exposed. (Naturally, you'll want to work on one side at a time.)

2. Begin the disassembly process by disconnecting the shock at the top of the top of the frame.

3. Next, loosen the two bolts at the bottom and remove the shock.

4. Disconnect the tie rod end so you can swivel the drum brake assembly.

5. Disconnect the anti-roll bar strut mount bolt and bushings.

6. Remove the retainer clip so that the brake line slips out of its support bracket. Tip: To keep all the brake fluid from draining out during the conversion, a cap such as the one used here (arrow) comes in handy.

7. Be sure to secure the spring with a safety chain when you prepare to remove the drum brake assembly. Remove the cotter pins at the ball joints. Loosen the ball joint nuts to two turns. Lower the jack about a 1/2 inch below the lower A-arm. Strike the spindle sharply with a hammer to break it loose. Raise the jack back up to take the tension off the ball joint nuts, then remove the nuts.

8. Lower the lower A-arm carefully and remove the drum brake assembly.

9. Now carefully lower that A-arm the rest of the way to remove the spring. (A spring compressor may be necessary.) Then disconnect the lower A-arm.

10. Disconnect the upper A-arm by loosening these bolts (arrows). Then take both A-arms to a machine shop to have the new ball joints installed.

11. Once the ball joints have been installed and you've done your prep work, you're ready to begin the installation process. Start by reinstalling the A-arm and spring. Once again, use a safety chain.

12. Next, attach the disc brake assembly spindle to the new ball joints. Torque the nuts on the ball joints to factory specs (lower A-arm: 70 lbs.-ft. nominal, 100 max to install the cotter pin; upper: 40 lbs.-ft. nominal, 70 max.). Then insert the new cotter pin

13. At this point, it is OK to remove the safety chain. Then connect the new disc brake line.

14. Replace the anti-roll bar strut bolt, then replace the shock.

15. Unscrew the old tie rod and install the new one from the conversion kit. Screw it into the adjustable sleeve approximately the same distance that the old tie rod went in, so your alignment won't be too far off. Torque the adjuster sleeve to 20 lbs.-ft.

16. Put the boot on the tie rod end, then insert it into the spindle. Replace the nut and torque to 30-50 lbs.-ft. for alignment. Insert the new cotter pin.

17. When you've finished the installation, turn the wheels lock to lock and check to see that the brake line isn't stretching or rubbing. Then bleed the brakes (consult your factory shop manual for correct procedure), and make sure everything is tight before you take the car off the jackstands. If everything looks good, test the brakes in your driveway, then go directly to an alignment shop.