1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

Crank Bolt?

Discussion in 'Wrenchin' Secrets' started by 68Rivi_In_Cali, Jan 22, 2010.

  1. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    A great wrench handle extender is the handle off your hydraulic jack if it fits over your wrench. I have never torqued them. Juts all my strenght with above handle on long breaker bar.
     
  2. jaystoy

    jaystoy Well-Known Member

    I torqued mine to 150 with torque wrench. Then, I used the bar tube from the hydralic jack, slipped it over my regular torque bar and tightened it about a half a turn. It is tight, but I think I can go even more. I am afraid of snapping or stripping. Then what??????
     
  3. austingta

    austingta Well-Known Member

    If you have an impact that can come close to the required spec. , that's the way to go.
     
  4. cstanley-gs

    cstanley-gs Silver Mist

    Really? Cant break it?
     
  5. David Hemker

    David Hemker Well-Known Member

    Some locktite on the threads & a good impact with at least 120psi feeding it. You can let it go and hammer for 30 seconds or so. The bolt is very stout and won't break, at least the 30+ I've done haven't broken.
     
  6. The Riv

    The Riv Urban Legend

    The engine rotation is the same as turning the bolt to
    tighten it. On mine, I wipe a SMALL amount of never seize
    into the balancer to prevent rust, ensure that the balancer is
    seated, and then torque it down to spec. Heck, I've run
    'em up with an impact before, and both ways I've never lost one.
    I have seen the elastomeric rubber go bad in them though.
    Invest in a new one. Your radiator and condenser may thank
    you later.
     

Share This Page