Concerns about the Performer, B4B Edelbrock

What they mean is you won't have AIR/EGR anymore after installing the part. I believe the current Performer and B4B both cover the AIR holes in the 72-76 heads. Some older B4Bs may require plugging the 4 AIR holes in the upper outside corners of the heads.

 

As I have posted before, the new B4B and the performer are the same exact manifold with only the carb position changed. The waffle pattern in the bottom of the manifold wasn't even moved to the new location for the B4B and remains offset to the rear.
You said this is going into your stock motor Riv, save your money and build the motor right later. You will not see any performance gain that is measureable on that big barge. Maybe only a weight savings.

 

I e-mailed Edelbrock about those issues a while ago, and was told there are NO issues with the new B4B. Yeah, right! I guess if Edelbrock doesn't really care, why should we buy their products.

Maybe TA will make their own updated RPM style dual-plane some day.

Yep, nickle and dime'n it on a landyacht is a waste of time and money, and many times results in worse performance because the combination of parts (engine, trans, and rear gears) are not optimized. Been there, done that on my old 72 Riv.....

The larger landyachts with the 9 3/8" rear gears kind'a suck too because you can't just go out and upgrade the 2.78's and 2.93's peg legs. That can limit your upgrade potential too.

The important thing I learn on my 72 Riv was that the stock (non-EGR) iron intake and the 800 Q-jet performed just as good as the B4B with the 800 Q-jet or TQ 800. The KB Mark 1H (similar to TA's 112) that I was running probably didn't need or want a better flowing intake. The heads (small valve) probably were a factor in that equation. I was also running a 2.93 peg leg at that time too.

 

What about the Offy dual quad intakes? do they cover the EGR holes as well? i have a line on a NOS offy2x4 and two small (350cfm or so) carbs. . .

 

Nobody runs those intakes they suck (or maybe I suould say, they don't properly suck) on our Buicks. :laugh:

 

LOL

sounds about like the normal offy intake,,, :laugh:

 

Yeah, I do worry about falling into a deep nickel & dime hole. Ive just got a bad spring fever from the brown bottle flu.
Im sick, I tell ya!. My sailing shoes are on, and I know I can make that yacht scoot.
The deal is, Im already saving up to build a serious motor and have two compete blocks/w heads to work with. Not sure what gears the three rear ends have. (Also have a rear end from a 74 Riv, I think its a posi). I hear finding the id numbers can be tricky.
Since I needed an Edelbrock for the completed motor anyway, I thought Id put one on the 3rd motor and car thats already running. Just for sh*ts and giggles and something to play with this summer.
But then the port match issue halted me.


Well, I drove the car home Wed. and I do have some things to fix first.
The driver side floor pan is rotted plus she has an exhaust leak.
Add the fact the power windows arent working, my eyes were burning!
Id also like to power up the bucket seats.
Some of the lights; headlamp, break, turn signals arent working.

So finding the rot causing water leak, fixing the exhaust and all the electrical problems, Ill keep busy.
That means Ill hold off on buying a manifold right now, unless of course, I find a great deal.
Thanks to a post I read here, I found a good place for replacement floor pans. http://classicfabrication.com/
Ill start tearing up the carpet this weekend to see what damage I have. Not all that sure what Im looking for.
Thanks for all the help guys. Ill try to post my progress.

 

Actually, they are not the same intake. Almost everything is different about them as far as detail goes. In other words, they do not share any of the same core boxes for manufacture. The new B4B seems like it was kind of a half assed resurection. On 1972 & later heads the new B4B does not block the two end smog holes on the cylinder heads. One reason for half assed, they filled in the flange in the middle to cover those holes but ended short for the end holes. The Offy Intakes do not cover any of the smog holes. If you need to buy an intake and you have `72 or later just go with a Performer. If you already have a B4B (or Offy for that matter) or get a good deal on one, you can block those smog pump holes by tapping them and screwing in set screws.

 

Been there too...:grin:

Been there too...:grin:

Check the front windshield pillers to see if they are the source of the leak. If, so the leak at the front windshield must be fixed first before the floor pan repair. Both of my front pillers were rusted through, but hidden by the trim that surrounded it. This is kind of hard to explain, but at night (with a flashlight) you can actually see a portion of the interior pillers by putting the flashlight up against the windshield itself and looking into the joint. That technique is good to know when you check out an older Riv with "no rust."

My leak started at the vinyl roof / metal trim joint, work its way down through the pillers, and then down to the front floor pans.

 

Seems Vic doesn't drive a Buick, or it would have been a better design....:grin: :grin: :grin: