I saw the same problem on some other manual cars as mine at the show and that would be a chattering on clutch release when starting off even worse in reverse. I have this in mine and it never does it cold just after warmed up and even then not all the time just when it can embarrass me at a show. I'm thinking of going to a metallic or ceramic clutch. Has anyone had this problem and have a fix? AL.
Yeah Al...I have seen your car...like that will happen. :laugh: Was good to catch up with you at the Nats.Might see you if you go to the Harrisburg show. Pat
Pat, after the show I didn't have a problem with it :rant: . I still going to pull the clutch because I hate to be embarrassed!!!! On the picnic thats a no brainer I'll be there and on time!!! See you there :beer AL.
Al, clutch chatter is usually caused by a glazed flywheel and or pressure plate. Did you have the flywheel cut when you changed the clutch? Have you been racing your car?
AL, as far as racing, no and I'm very easy on my cars. The flywheel is new from T/A Performance. This is a problem I've since I've owned it. As I posted earlier cold it's smooth as silk but warmed up it chatters at times. The flywheel I had when I got with the car did the same thing then I had it milled and the problem came back and the mill marks were still in the surface. So I bought a new one from T/A and after a wile the same problem. I'm very easy on a clutch (had a 125k on the last car I owned and sold the car and the orginal clutch was still fine). The GS is the only car I have had a problem with. I'm thinking it may be a problem with the disc material (455 get very hot). I've had some tell me you need to burn in a new clutch and I don't agree with this and will not do it. This is why I may be looking into a different clutch disc material. Have you heard of a metalic or ceramic disc? AL.
Al, What clutch do you have in it now? I switched to a Centerforce Dual Friction and I love it.... :3gears:
AL, I'm using a factory GM OEM Borg & Beck. I'll try the Centerforce but the only thing conserns me is the hard pedal and the adjustment on pedal hieght. Did you have any problems in those areas? AL.
Al, My Borg & Beck chatters a little but only when the car is really hot and mostly when I'm trying to ease into forward motion - like starting up a hill into my garage. My real problem now is the fact that the clutch is slowly destroying the pedal from the stress. Next problem: Frame-Zbar attaching point. With a Borg & Beck that "tab" sticking up from the frame can't last forever - and I have seen them fall apart at the most inoportune times. Time to see my welder.
Brad, welding the bracket would be a wise move. As far as the chatter, I'm sick of it and even know its only time to time it always picks the wrong time to chatter!!! If you hear any feed back on my earlier post on the Centerforce let me know, Thanks for reply :beer AL.
Metallic Clutch Ive used a metallic clutch and the chatter was just as you described...embarrassing! I just switched to a Centerforce Dual Friction and so far no chatter when hot. I did have to change the belhousing pivot ball to an adjustable one to keep the clutch fork from hitting the bellhousing. Once the pivot height was lenghtened and a longer lower adjustment rod was fabricated...blah blah blah...the linkage worked fine. I will try to give it a real workout this weekend at the Detroit area Woodward dream cruise :3gears:
Centerforce Dual Friction Scott, so you saying the Centerforce Dual Friction is the way to go to get rid of the chattering? And was the install hieght and compression and pedal hieght the same as the stock clutch? AL.
Clutch Al I have had a very good pedal feel with the new Centerforce clutch and no chattering at all, very smooth engagement. I Did have to play with the pivot ball height to keep the clutch fork from hitting the back of the bellhousing "window". The adjustment rod is a separate issue that was discussed in some other threads...but the stock adjuster and the Kleiner repo both need to have some extra length added to them to get the correct pedal travel/height. Hope this helps.
Al, I too have been down the leg breaker clutch route with old style clutches. You had to have a killer hard clutch pedal so the clutch wouldn't slip when powershifting, but one drive in a buddy's 4-speed Chevelle with a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch sold me. I installed one in my GSX and I swear the pedal feels softer than stock, but I've never had any unwanted slippage! I don't know how they do it, but I'll never use another type clutch again. I did have an issue with the fork hitting the rear of the bellhousing opening, but once I figured out what was going on, I simply installed an adjustable pivot ball and never looked back. I believe my problem was the fact I have the smallblock style clutch adjuster/fork assembly... o No:
The Borg & beck is the three finger plate? Just out of curiousity, how come you guys dont run a OE diaphram style pressure plate?
No, the Borg & Beck is a diaphragm type clutch and the same one came in the car from the factory. Yor are thinking of the after market racing clutches. AL.
Al, Points of clarification. Borg & Beck "style" is a three-finger clutch. Diaphram is diaphram. Allow me to clarify though. Borg & Beck is actually a company. The company probably did actually make diaphram clutches also (but maybe not). The commonly referred to "Borg & Beck" style clutch is three-finger clutch that depresses a series of coil springs arranged about the pressure plate housing. It is typified by its often gargantuan pedal effort. But it sure can hold. There is also another type of "three-finger" design oft referred to as "long" 'cuz it has long fingers (prolly).
