Clutch Fork Removal Tricks?

Anyone have any tricks for removing and installing a clutch fork without removing the transmission?
Also, can a Lakewood adjustable pivot ball be adjusted with everything installed? Theoretically, that seems the way to do it, but I can't see how to get at the locking nut.

 

I've never seen a clutch fork installed that way before...gotta make sure the throw out bearing is installed correctly on the fork end. As far as the pivot ball...I*think*the correct way to do it is to lay a straight edge across the front of the bell and measure to the top of the pivot ball. The OEM dimension evades me right now...all I remember at the moment is that Lakewood bells are made about .100" deeper than an OEM bell...meaning you'll just adjust it out to the max, but if you're running a block plate, you need to factor that thickness into the equation...soooooo with that said .100" deeper + .120" block plate, you would actually need a pivot ball that can adjust up to .220". Remember this, since the clutch fork pivots almost at a 2:1 ratio, that .220" will be a double loss (.440") at the pedal. That .440" can create a lot of headaches with the clutch not releasing completely or not being able to disengage it fully. It's a crap shoot since there isn't really a pivot ball that will adjust out to that dimension...next best thing is to get a GM truck pivot ball that is .300" taller than the oem one.

 

Thanks for the info. I am actually using the pivot in a BOP bellhousing. I wonder what the spec for that housing would be?
As for the fork, I really don't want to take the tranny out AGAIN if at all possible. That's why I'm hoping for some "tricks". :Brow:

 

Oh...my bad!!! I made the wrong presumption of using a Lakewood bell...I need to measure mine just to see what I'm working with. If I can find a clutch fork laying around, I'll see if the hole is big enough to maneuver the fork through there.

 

Thanks for the efforts. Any shortcuts would be appreciated.