clutch fork hits the bellhousing...

Discussion in 'U-shift em' started by BLT4SPD, Jul 18, 2005.

  1. BLT4SPD

    BLT4SPD Well-Known Member

    I have a 1970 GS that I converted to a 4 speed, and the clutch fork hits the back of the opening of the bellhousing, and the throw out bearing is not getting enough travel.

    I had this problem once before with a stock bellhousing, and switched to a lakewood blowproof bellhousing with an adjustable pivot ball, and it seemed to solve the problem, except what was really hapening is that I was grinding the clutch a little each time I shifted, and now that the clutch has worn a little, it will not go into gear at all.

    I have all Dave kliener repro parts ( upper rod, lower rod ) and year one z bar with a lakewood bellhousing and centerforce clutch. I have the car at a shop now, and the guy seems to think that if I cut 1/2 of the bellhousing away behind the clutch fork it will allow it to travel a little further to engage the clutch. He also says that he thinks the clutch fork is wrong, but I dont think so because I know a lot of you are running dave klieners parts with no problems.

    Does anyone have any suggestions ??????

    Please help!!!!!!!!!!
     
  2. LOLO

    LOLO Well-Known Member

    I seem to remember that the z-bar that Year One has is not the correct one for the big block buicks, I think it is for small blocks. The clutch forks are different as well.
     

    Attached Files:

  3. BLT4SPD

    BLT4SPD Well-Known Member

    reply

    That looks exactly like the fork and rod I have from dave kliener.....I wonder about the z-bar.

    I spoke with dave personally and if my memory serves me, he said it was the same as the one he makes ( although I have seen both and his is a much nicer piece ).

    has anyone else had experience with this?

    Any thoughts?

    Please keep them coming.....
     
  4. D-Con

    D-Con Kills Rats and Mice

    Throwout bearing. An old parts-man friend shared this with me when I had the same problem. Long bearing is too long, short bearing is too short. I am sorry but I don't have my reference book with me to give the part number (200 miles away).

    Have them pull one for a 75 or 76 Skyhawk and see what it looks like. There is one that is slightly longer than the short bearing and that might be what the application was listed for. The application is a guess from what I rememer him telling me, and I'm sorry about not knowing the part number, but that is what fixed my exact problem you that you are now fighting.

    oh, and don't always trust what the parts book says, sometimes they assume it's like a Chevy too!
     
  5. BLT4SPD

    BLT4SPD Well-Known Member

    reply

    Damn...when you guys are right you are right. Earlier today I solved my problem by enlarging the hole in the housing. Afterward I was told about the throwout bearing. Aparantly either way solves the problem. I really appreciate all of your input guys thanks!!!!
     
  6. staged67gspwr

    staged67gspwr "The Black Widow"

    Adam is right,75 skylark w/350 throwout bearing is a longer one than the early skylarks,i have a BCA and a Napa # the BCA # is 1377-C and the Napa is #BRGN1741.

    Thanks
     
  7. GSX-Rated

    GSX-Rated Well-Known Member

    Clutch pushrod

    Does Dave Kleiner have the pusrod from the clutch pedal to Z-bar? If he does, Could anyone give me his number, Also I need a flywheel insp cover for my 4spd & I've only found it at OPG. Their shipping is a little high. Will the Chevelle flywheel insp cover fit?
     
  8. 70gsrick

    70gsrick 1 of 66

    Yes Dave K does make the rod in question. Mike (racebuicks) on the board sells the inspection cover.

    GS Enterprises(Dave Kleiner)

    7042 Boice Creek Rd
    Potosi WI 53820

    608-763-2076
     

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