I will soon start pulling the 350 in my 70. In will go a 464 and I will convert from mechanically to hydraulic clutch. The 464 will put around 320-330 on the rear wheels. I want a clutch that can handle serious power, because later on I might throw in a engine with 465 RWHP and the car will hit the track sometimes. I want a clutch that can be driven on the street and take some beating on the track. I know I want both things but can I have that? I have been looking on some RAM type clutches and some McLeod ones. Let me hear your recommendations, thanks.
stay away from the hydraulic clutch if u are gonna race it they are inconsistent and creep on the start line.
If you go with something that requires more pedal pressure do yourself a favor and upgrade the pedal and linkage. The stock pedal is particularly horrible and needs reinforcement. I've destroyed two. The tab on the frame holding the bellcrank is also weak. Finally, a borg and beck style clutch requires a longer fork to bellcrank linkage; replace that thing anyways with a spherical rod end and a stud. You'll be happy with the smooth engagement and the lack of crappy rubber bushing.
love the hydraulic clutch set ups, great choice! The hydraulic is used widely in drag racing. Here is a link with some info on clutchshttp://www.mcleodracing.com/info/?id=5248
did you decide on a clutch? i was told by the best drag race clutch builders to always run mechanical linkage, the good clutches nowadays dont have much pedal effort,if your mostly just going to street drive and dont care about missing the odd shift at high rpm then ya go with the hydraulic,ive seen firsthand the difference at the track with both not like some
Jan, what trans are you going to use in your street car? I am looking at converting my stage2 GSX clone to a Keisler RS700 5spd. shifts clean up to 7000rpm and rated @700ftlbs. Unless I misunderstood your intent here you are looking at driving a legit street car with a trans/clutch set-up that will be as just as happy at the track as it is on the street. They are having no problems with hydraulic clutch set ups in factory rated 685hp+ cars and they are also working fine in many drag cars. I am not saying that people should ditch there linkage and go hydraulic but if you are converting from a auto to a standard it makes alot more sence especially with the huge advances in hydraulic clutch tech not to mention no screwing around with linkage and headers. If you have a race car and you want to shift clutchless then buy a $3500 clutch and a G-force and go drag racing. If I had my choice it would be a ST-1200, they at least have great street manners but you will go broke installing one:Brow: You are on the right path, Ram has nice stuff but they are not up to speed on hydraulic clutch set-ups because they haven't tried to over come linkage being quicker the fluid. Check out the Keisler RS 700. Here are some more links, I hope this helps: http://www.keislerauto.com/Keisler_Auto/Keisler_Engineering.html I have used these slaves before, very nice peice if the piston is set-up correctly. http://www.mcleodracing.com/categories/Hydraulics.mcl The the RS 600 7000rpm shifts http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jDPUc8f_V_Q&feature=relmfu RS600 install http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oHgGApKPjIE hydraulic clutch in action: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8OCkzWzBkqg http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/drivetrain/hrdp_1005_new_disc_clutch_system_news/viewall.html Here is the clutch I was thinking about trying: McLeod RST Chevy Street Twin High Horsepower Clutch Assembly. The all-new #6912-07 RST Clutch assembly from McLeod Industries is a dual disc (twin) clutch that bolts to a stock configuration flywheel for an easy high performance upgrade. The key feature of the new design includes smooth engagement with excellent release qualities, ideal for daily driving. Unique twin disc organic facing design will handle engines producing up to 800-1000 horsepower. Pre-balanced to fit internally balanced Chevrolets (fits all small and big blocks except 400 small block, 454 and 502 big block), includes correct alignment tool for installation. With a softer than stock pedal effort, this assembly drives like the stock clutch. Basically, your wife or girlfriend can drive your car without breaking a sweat. How bad can it be if your wife and girlfriend can both drive it!:laugh:
Thanks for info Chris. I have a manual car today with mechanical linkage. I have a hydraulic setup laying around, but actually think I will try with the mechanical linkage at first. I had a centerforce dual friction in it untill now and it is smooth driving. The engine going in will be 464, around 10.5-1 compression, TA Stg.1 heads, hemi killer cam, performer intake with spacer and Holley 850 and stock rockers as a start, same engine with roller rockers and a SP1 made 404hk at the rear wheels last year, so I am hoping around 330-340 on this setup with MT super scavenger headers. Engine will be all red looking stock:Brow: I have been talking and searching around and what I can figure out the Centerforce DFX might be the best clutch for both purposes. Car will mostly be on street and will be street raced, because we dont have a track that is open more than 4 times a year. I am pretty sure that my M21 will last on the street but will probaly die with some sticky tires on a track, but hey then there is an oppertunity for an upgrade 3.73 12 bolt out rear.
:TU: I thought it was a street car. You are correct, the M21 should hold up until the slicks go on. The RS 700 5 speed would be great down the road with 3.73's and that is when I would consider up-grading to the Hydraulic set-up. The conversion I Installed works great and was a blast to drive, the pedal only had 1 inch of pedal stroke but either way you go have fun. :TU:
We had an 11" DFX (same size as you would need) in the 4000 pound 03 Mustang Cobra when it was about 530 RWHP/RWTQ. You will have no problems once you learn how to drive it, but it is unforgiving if you regress. It does not like to be slipped, and is more of an on/off clutch. We now have a Spec 3+ with 742 RWHP. The Spec 3+ is more forgiving (streetable) then the DFX and requires about the same pedal effort as the stock Ford clutch did. The twin disks are holding similar power with half the pedal effort at twice the price. If a girl like me can work the Spec 3+ without complaint, what does that say about guys that spend all that money on an easy clutch? Cheryl
i converted auto to manual this year. I ended up going with mechical linkage, i have not heard anyone say that there hydro setup on our old cars, has that same fast and hard positive shift threw the gears as the mechicanical lickage does. I know the salesmen will tell you it will feel the same.
If you get a chance to drive one of are cars with a correctly installed hydraulic system I think you would like it, the pedal only moves/strokes one inch. I was against using these setups in are cars prior to a buddy of mine using one in his GS. After seeing how much he enjoyed his I built a system for a friends 69sport wagon. It is more technical and challenging to install over the linkage system but for me its kinda like going from drum brakes to disc. Its not for everyone and I respect that, it does feel different on the foot. Like anything else, it pays to buy quality parts when going to this set-up. Chris
Can you do speed shifts, were you are not letting up on the throttel between gears, like you can with the manual, and can you shift as fast?
