I adjusted my clutch today. Much better feel and smoother shifting. I have headers and noticed that there almost ZERO clearance between them and the retainer side of the clutch rod. Initially I thought the retainer was missing but I then noticed a small cotter pin as the only thing keeping the rod connected to the Z bar. Is this normal? I am concerned that the cotter pin is a weak point and I'm anxious about it. I also beleive I have the small block fork and rod. Is the correct BB version better and worth replacing?
What kind of clutch are you running? It can make a difference here. A Borg & Beck clutch, for instance, requires a longer adjusting rod. I'm very familiar with the stock setup having just rebuilt and replaced everything. And yet some of your description sounds off. Lets confirm what you have. The BBB engine is set up like this: Between the Z-bar (AKA bellcrank) and the clutch fork there should be what amounts to an eyebolt. The hole of the eyebolt should have a steel sleeved bushing engaging the clutch fork through which a clevis pin is inserted and held in place by the return spring. On a header equipped car the straight part of this spring can go through the header pipes and connect to the frame. The other end of the eyebolt is threaded to accept a clevis block (a square block with a threaded hole). The pin of the clevis block inserts through the Z-bar and is retained by a cotter pin, spring pin, or hairpin, bobby pin, etc. I reccommend a spring pin (there is probably another name for it). A small block car does not use this eyebolt setup and instead uses a threaded rod with a pointy end where the eyebolt hole would be. The clutch fork would have a cup for the pointy end to engage. Yes, there is pretty tight tolerance between the headers and the stock setup. Along with my total rebuild of the assembly I replaced the eyebolt garbage with a spherical rod end and a threaded stud. It is immensly better, feels great, and looks flashy. As a side benefit I found it is also more easily adjusted than the stock setup and can be adjusted in at least two other ways compared to stock. If you weld up the Z-bar hole, cut a new hole, install a new rubber bushing (from a Corvette sway bar), and go with the Spherical rod end you'll be amazed at how "new" the clutch will feel; no slop, totally smooth action.
BadBrad it sounds like you've been through it. Did you ever think to make this setup for others to buy and use? I smell oportunity?
OH. I just got my first 4 speed so i'll be doing some research I guess. And There truley is magic here! Buick!
Brad's description of the spherical rod end is what I use and run at the track with a 2800 lb static pressure pressure plate. I've posted pics before on this. Do a search.
Brad, I understand what you are saying and I have done some research on the BBB vs SBB setups. It appears that I have the SBB setup from the Z-bar, rod and clutch fork. I will take some pics. Anyone have the correct BBB Clutch fork they would sell me? Thanks,
The BBB clutch fork is available repro from Dave Kleiner. I tried to get an original but I eventually gave up. Personally, I would just leave the SBB fork in there. If the car is all together, leave the one you have in there till you need to take it apart for something else, like a new clutch maybe. Im not a fan of taking something apart unless its broken.
Jason, I feel the same as you, don't take something apart unless it's neccessary. I do plan on replacing the clutch in the near term so I thought I'd start getting all the correct parts together. I like to have everything I need for a project "on hand" so that once I start I won't have any delays. How do I get in touch with Dave? Does he have a website? Thanks!!
I've got those two part numbers pretty handy around here. I'll dig them out. Ok - the spherical rod end is part number 732-1129 from Napa Auto parts. Buy yourself a few different length exhaust studs to test/put into this thing. The Z-bar bushing (engaging the clutch pedal rod through the firewall) is actually a C2 or C3 Corvette rear sway bar bushing. GM Part number 387-2955. Package contains 2 bushings. I actually pressed one into the Z-bar (still on the car) by freezing it, lubing it, and using the old bolt through a socket technique. The old bushing comes out with the screwdriver leverage method. Some of our guys sell this bushing so if you feel like supporting the team go see Michael Garrison here. Otherwise the dealership has them too, at least until bankruptcy.
