Have to be careful, "Ceramic" is the new buzz word... like Graphine was not that long ago. I am generally a fan of Griot's and most of my care care items are from them, but when they have a Ceramic Tire Dressing... they've fallen into a marketing hole. Now, that said - I actually like their tire stuff, it lasts a decent amount of time, and isn't shiny, just clean looking and it doesn't fling off the tire. And the 3in1 Ceramic Spray Wax lasts on the daily drivers that sit outside, once I put if over a good coat of regular wax.
They’re not. Like 73 Stage-1 said, it’s a buzz word or catch phrase, like the word iron, or titanium, it gives a feeling of strength, and durability. But think about it, ceramic is a hard white crystalline product, how is that infused into a liquid coating and able to be applied to your paint finish?? It’s just a marketing word and people get all caught up in it. People say “ I had my car ceramic coated” before they drop it off for paint repair. I think “ wax and grease remover or Dawn dish washing liquid will take it right off” Use whatever wax goes on easy and comes off easy, cause non of it lasts anyway.
So does that mean the ceramic coating put on new cars is not that good? This is something extra you buy to have done to car when you get new one. Is it good or junk?
It’s a sales gimmick, yes it’s a coating like wax, but that’s it. It’s junk if you pay more than 150.00 IMO to have it done. Back in 89/1990 at Hyundai we were selling the “Teflon” paint sealant for 300.00 bucks, that was a rip off also.
There are snake oils and there are the real McCoys. Choose wisely. I had a professional outfit do PPF and 3 coats of whatever ceramic coating they use on my 2018 Sierra PU truck. It wasn’t cheap. This was done in 2019. It has been fantastic, shines incredible and there is nothing to do but wash it. I had my boat done this winter too.
I use that on my Cherokee, it works okay. It's far easier to apply than the Nufinish wax I used in the past, and doesn't leave visible residue in crevices or on plastic trim. I'll use it on my Buicks too. I applied a real graphene ceramic coating (Adams) on my new Bronco. Cost about $100 and takes some time to properly apply. It supposedly lasts up to 9 years. After 10 months (and garage kept) it performs like it was just applied. These ceramic coatings are a different product than conventional waxes. In your case, the Griots 3 in 1 is a decent easy-to-use wax. The Turtle wax 'Ice' wax has been highly recommended as well.
A few years back I applied “Glide Coat” It’s a ceramic coating that’s Uber expensive, I did a 35’ Fountain boat, and a few cars, Corvette, BMW, Porsche, and a GM pick up. I was NOT impressed.
I bought this product because an ex body guy recommended it, https://www.amazon.com/303-Graphene-Nano-Spray-Coating/dp/B08K3N5QP5 I applied it almost 1 year ago. Water still beads up on the car to such an extent that all I need to do to dry the car after a wash is drive it on the highway for 5 minutes. Don't think I will ever use anything else. It was very easy to apply and remove. I even used it on my windshield, acts like Rain-X.
I really like this stuff: I wash my whole car with less than 2 pints of water. It will never see a garden hose again. Mind you this isn't for removing heavy dirt. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEM-WAC-707-16 Then follow up as needed with: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEM-WAC21516 Easy on easy off.
Here's my 18 Sierra w/ ceramic coating since '19. Harsh CNY winters are tough and a wash brush and bucket are all I use. I use Woolwax on the bottom and Corrosion Free in the seams, doors, gate, etc. I never do the undercar wash. It will eventually strip the Woolwax. I do have identical wheels for winter w/ snow tires, because chrome-plated aluminum wheels are no match for salt. The real ceramic coating requires a lot of paint correction and prep prior, and the whole process of everything I've done is very front-loaded expense wise.
I was wondering since my wife just had that done on her new Toyota Corolla Hybrid, dealer did this it was about 600 fat ones See how long this stuff lasts
Yeah it did I thought they said 10 years but we see after 5 is more like it. We see how long it beads water off the hood, that is where wax and such wears off first. We in NE Ohio so you know more than most how our winters are, on like mad one day sun out the next, welcome to lake effect, Sucker! lol We even get clouds and rain to go with that when it gets warm. Hey, that is why the Ravenna Arsenal was put there, lot of cloud cover in winter.
Demko, I probably asked you this before but what do you like for cleaning the paint up for waxing if water spotted. My 92 Mustang conv needs a clean up on the body paint. On the Buick I always used Mequires #7 then used the # 26 wax, this has done pretty good over the years but that 26 wax is a little hard to get off if you don't do it right away, like don't let it dry too much. My Buick paint job is now on year 26 Still looks good just need that around the back window fixed where I am getting rust with paint bubbling up and under the vinyl roof in the area too.
Water spots are tough to eliminate. I consider there to be TWO types of water spotting. First one is the edge of the water spot leaves behind the dirt and crud after the water evaporates, a clay bar, or mild compound then polish usually takes care of it. Second type is the worst, the water (rain water) beads up, then the sun cooks it, like a bunch of tiny magnifying glasses on your paint, and it literally burns/cooks the paint, primarily around the edges of the water droplet and leaves behind an outline of the droplet. SOMETIMES you can wet sand them out OR reduce the appearance of them, but it’s VERY sketchy, ESPECIALLY on OEM paint, as the OEM’s don’t usually put much clear on BUT the OEM clear is vastly superior and harder then the aftermarket clears. Another issue with sanding the clear to remove or reduce the spots, whether OEM clear or aftermarket, is your thinning it out which can lead to total failure……….. it starts to get milky looking, then it delaminates. Honestly best course of action is have a painter look at it and determine if it’s doable (sanding and rubbing) OR if painting is going to be needed.
