Thought I had just a worn idler arm to replace, but I'm finding the whole assy is very sloppy and worn, and it shows on the road. BTW, I also couldn't separate the dang original idler arm from the centerlink... Anyway... I have a new idler arm from NAPA, will be ordering a centerlink, tie rods and new adjusters from RockAuto or GMPD this week. Now I'm wondering just how much of a PITA this project is going to be, after having so much trouble with the idler arm(which is still not off...) Am I going to need some special tools for this? The chassis manual refers to a puller tool when disconnecting any of the ball studs. Any advice or input is appreciated.
I bought the "pickleforks" from Sears that are needed to seperate the components. Also need a short throw 5lb sledge to "beat hell" out of them with. One of the pickle forks if for the ball joints and the other is for everything else(I think). Bert
I bought a puller meant for idler arms, but will work on tie rods, centerlinks and such. I have pickle forks too, but after using the puller, I'll never go back to using the "big" hammer! Here it is at Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1752 I have seen them for a few more bucks at Autozone, and Pep Boys too.
Hmm, that's strange. I assume the arm was still bolted to the frame. You also need a big heavy hammer.
First I tried the steps that were spelled out with the idler arm I bought, which has you remove the support from the frame first. That seemed backwards and got me nowhere, so I bolted it back on and tried the fork, with no luck. I may just need to beat the crap out of it with the fork. No more time to play around today though.
Don't be afraid to get nasty with it. I had to take a sledge to some of my suspension/steering pieces. How are your control arm bushings? If they are original then they are probably toasted.:idea2:
David---Why are you trying to seperate the idler arm?? If you are replacing everything (idler, tie rods, center link) you can remove it all as one assembly, just unbolt the idler from the frame. You will still have the get the Pitman arm that comes off the steering box removed from the center link but not the idler arm.
David, before you buy the parts elsewhere, check pricing on Amazon.com. Enter the part number in the search bar. Sometimes they have better pricing than others AND have a free shipping option!:TU: I picked up some Moog tie rod ends for $8 each!!:grin:
Patton, I was initially only going to replace the idler arm, not everything else. Hadn't thought about Amazon, I'll have to search there too. But RockAuto prices are pretty darn good and shipping is reasonable in my experience. Hmm, that Moog center link didn't show in my search by year/model.
RockAuto is giving me Spicer/Raybestos # 4401002 for the center link, for a 68 GS350. $52.99 and AC Delco # 45B1002 (88911054) $73.79 Tie rod ends: AC Delco # 45A0106(88909940) inner $24.79 # 45A0037(88909871) outer $44.79 (and some Spicer/Raybestos options)
I just went through this and it wasn't bad removing everything as an assembly, as was stated above. I had a bit of pounding on the pickle fork to get the pitman arm separated. I bought a mix of MOOG and AC Delco from Rockauto. The AC Delco parts were control arm bushings. Anyway, as told to me by the NAPA counterman, any AC Delco part starting in "889" is an outsourced part. In my case all the 889 series parts were from Mexico or China. I wouldn't buy them again and would probably stick with all MOOG as I believe everything they sent was made in USA. Just an FYI...
Any views on the Spicer/Raybestos options? I'm not having much luck finding Moog part #'s online for a 68, other than RockAuto showing the DS749 if I type in that part #.
The Moog bushings are made in Mexico (I'm pretty sure they have been making them down there for a few years now). It looks like the ball joints are still made here. Don't know on center links/tie rods or idler arms. This is based on what the boxes said for some RockAuto-ordered Moog parts I installed last month.
I think the McQuay-Norris components are of a better quality than the recent Moog parts. Their prices are pretty good too. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/68-6...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Not too bad for the complete package.
Most people do IMO unless they really want the parts to develop a quick patina. Take your pick of paints....as easy as any one of the cast blast spray cans or more involved with priming, mixing paints, masking off parts of the parts, etc. Just clean the parts real well before you paint...wax and grease remover and maybe even a tack rag to get any lint off of the cast parts.
