Centerforce Dual Friction

I'm working on installing the trans in Jim Dillon's Stage 1 convert.
I went with the Centerforce Dual Friction and ordered a Centerforce throwout bearing #N1716. While it clips onto the fork, I don't see how it can swivel when the clutch is pushed in. There would be uneven pressure on the fingers of the pressure plate. And I don't have the stock bearing that came out, only the stock fork to compare it with. The stock fork has the clips on each end with a slight recess or oval that it appears would allow for a throwout bearing with provisions for allowing it to swivel slightly to stay flat with the fingers??????? I never saw the stock bearing so kinda shootin' in the dark here. I'm in the process of getting a proper illustration to look at, thought I'd fire this off to the group first.
I'm using a Lakewood steel bellhousing and installed an adjustable pivot ball #3855G. But getting it to clip onto that same fork is going to be difficult at best. What are some of you folks using for a pivot ball if you don't have the stock one?
What kind of experiences have some of you guys run into when using the Centerforce stuff with either stock or repro. stuff?
Thanks a bunch.

 

I would like to know too, since I heard the Centerforce is the one to use.

 

o No: Best I can do is tell you that my set-up needed the Lakewood adjustable pivot ball to put the fork into alignment. Stock bellhousing though...

 

Thanks Al.

Anybody use the Centerforce #N1716 throwout bearing? And did you check to see if the surface stayed parallel with the fingers so it applied even pressure to all the springs?

 

I used a pair of the Dual Friction clutches on a 5.0 Ford that I owned ten years ago. It had a 10 inch unit intially, but I upgraded to the later model 10.5 from the efi cars post 86. I had some difficulty getting a proper pedal with either one of the clutches, but Ford has that plastic clutch pawl set up under the dash to adjust the travel and freeplay only. It may have been the pawl, and not the clutch. However, the factory clutch and the last one I used, a non- Centerforce hd conventional unit, never had a problem with the adjustment. The discs are VERY aggressive, and they cut a path in the flywheel like no conventional disc I have ever used. After a short period of time, the flywheels had a wear path approaching 1/32nds deep. I was running the T5 Borg Warner with the tall 2.73 stock rear gearing, so some clutch sliding was needed to get the car off the mark, and I abused the hell out of it too. I don't know what has changed in the last few years, but I would not have a problem using another one if need be. Thanks, Rudy E

 

Al

Is the one you used listed by Summit as a LAK 15501?

I note that the Centerforce throw-out bearing is a lot shorter than the one that was in the car. So, I can see how an adjustable pivot ball, as opposed to stock, is necessary.

 

Pivot Ball

Yes Jim, I believe it is. The problem I had, had to do with the # 1716 throw-out bearing being shorter than the stock unit. The new fork would interfere with the rear of the opening in the bellhousing until I swapped to the adjustable unit.

 

Yes, there is no question but that the Centerforce bearing is a lot shorter. I appreciate you pointing out this issue.

Tell me how you went about adjusting the height of the new Lakewood ball.

 

Well

I adjusted the pivot ball so that the arc of swing the fork made from first contact to fully released was more or less centered in the bellhousing window.
Sorry it's not more scientific than that, but the stock pivot ball would put the fork at an "overextended" point when fully depressed if you know what I mean. I have heard of people having trouble with the ball/socket style clutch linkage popping apart at the worst times and I think this is why. The fork would be pushed too far back without the adjustable pivot ball. Help at all?

 

Yes, I understand what you did.