Center header bolt Need install tips

Discussion in 'Wrenchin' Secrets' started by Eric Schmelzer, Sep 26, 2006.

  1. Eric Schmelzer

    Eric Schmelzer Well-Known Member

    I know they can be a pain in the butt. I could use some good tips on how to get them installed. This is on a stock big block bolt pattern. The center (bottom) bolt between the center exhaust ports.
     
  2. Buick Dave

    Buick Dave Well-Known Member

    Eric, just finger tight the 2 end bolts..so the headers still wiggle....then go find a rock guitarist...someone with long fingers pay them big money to get the PITA bolt in....very hard to align....but once you get it started....not bad.
    No magic solution..but dont give up...and be glad you dont have the 2-1/8th" headers....good luck.
     
  3. 65specialconver

    65specialconver kennedy-bell MIA

    i put some wheel bearing grease in a box wrench to hold the bolt.stab it in,get it started & spend 1/2 hr tightning it.but i used 3/8 head bolts.it was quite frustrating :rant:
     
  4. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    Eric- Go get yourself a set of the ARP 12 point 3/8 head header bolts. Its cake with these! The regular six sided 7/16 ones are an effort in frustration. The ARP ones are great. Only problem is that you'll have to buy two packages. They come 12 to a package for the Chevy guys. Once they are started, you can get a pretty good swing out of a long 3/8 box wrench.
     
  5. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    I know the problem with these you are talking about is starting them! I have had best success starting them with the index fingers of both hands holding bolt at the same time. Needlenose pliers holding threaded part of bolt while trying to turn with fingers also may work.
     
  6. 10sec 455

    10sec 455 Well-Known Member

    What headers do you have? They all require a different approach. Some headers you can get the center bolt with a 1/4" ratchet and other you need both hands to start the bolt working around the tubes.
     
  7. 455regal

    455regal Well-Known Member

    BEEN THERE!!
    I used a piece of hose pressed on the head of the bolt to get it started and then used one of those gear wrenches. They have an open end and a ratchet on the other. They move in small clicks so it take awhile as compared to a traditional ratchet but it was a piece of cake!! Hope that helps!! oh I had poston headers.
    Brad
     
  8. 7 skylark 1

    7 skylark 1 Well-Known Member

    i took a cut off wheel and slotted the middle hole. install the bolt in the head then drop the header on it and install the rest of the bolts.
     
  9. Eric Schmelzer

    Eric Schmelzer Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the reply's guys. Alot of good ideas to work with. I don't think I'll be able to slot/notch out the middle hole as they are installed in the car.

    Jeff, I'm running TA 2012SCH headers. 2" primary
     
  10. Michael Evans

    Michael Evans a new project

    I second this tip. I have all 12-point bolts. I use a pair of niddle-nose plires to start it (while pushing it in with eigther my finger or screw driver) and run it down until it is close to tight.
     
  11. RG67BEAST

    RG67BEAST Platinum Level Contributor

    I recall using allen headed bolts for the holes hard to access.
    Ray
     
  12. 462 GILLEY

    462 GILLEY Well-Known Member

    In the past I have used rubber O- rings to hold the bolds to the header while installing them. This worked and no bolts dropped down to never never land. The last time I slotted the center header flange, started the ARP bolt in the head and then slipped the header on and installed the two outter bolts, after that it was easy.
    I went to NAPA and bought a 3/8 racheting box end wrench and ground down the side to allow it to fit. This make it alot easier to tighten the bolts up.

    Mike
     
  13. Yardley

    Yardley Club Jackass

    Mike nailed it!

    I put the bolt in, then roll an "O" ring over the threads and up to the back side of the header flange. This holds the bolt in place.

    Now, just start the 2 end bolts enough so they put pressure on the center bolt, pressing it to the bolt hole. Then just use a box wrence to turn it in. You only get like an eigth turn each throw of the wrench, but it goes in and it goes quickly.

    Once the center bolt is started, be sure to cinch all of the bolts down little by little. If you just crank the header on with the 3 bolts (the center one and the ones on each end) you can't get one or two of the remaining bolts in.

    It is actually very easy.
     
  14. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Hey Jeff - what happens to the o-ring?

    - Bill
     
  15. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    It becomes a pancake:grin:
     
  16. Buick Dave

    Buick Dave Well-Known Member

    Re-did mine a few weeks ago...s/steel bolt, 12 points, fat fingers, and a box end....but i did drop a valve retainer heard it clunk a dozen times..took a hour to find it..i like the o-ring idea..will keep that in mind for when my fingers get too fat.
     
  17. 436'd Skylark

    436'd Skylark Sweet Fancy Moses!!!!!

    My hooker headers came with the middle hole slotted. I have 5/16" 12 pt head bolts. it was pretty easy, but very time consuming. no leaks!
     
  18. Eric Schmelzer

    Eric Schmelzer Well-Known Member

    I actually got some in a few weeks ago. I used some 12pt bolts and had to trim them down some so that they would go in far enough that I could get a wrench on them. Had to use a bit of wheel bearing grease to hold them in untill they caught a thread.
     
  19. 69GS400s

    69GS400s ...my own amusement ride!


    BINGO !!! There's my secret ... Sears ratcheting wrench set (the stubby ones) Work GREAT for that bolt. Turns the half hour job into a 1 minute deal :beer
     

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