Not to rub it in, but I have AC in my garage and I don't feel like walking from the house to the garage in the heat.
Unless its decked, it's all over the place everywhere! So depending on where you measure to, it will vary from side/side front/back. That's how mine was before Angelucci decked it.
I’m going to use the factory (Fel Pro) bathtub gasket, it’s the thinnest at .013 and doesn’t upset my bolt hole alignment, never had ANY issues with the bathtub gasket, plus I won’t have to use the TA baffle which I find problematic. I DO have to elongate the manifold bolt holes slightly on the bottom of the bolt hole like Fox’s Den did. Also found one of them “core braces” or whatever their called in one of the water passages in the head, I got part of it out, other part is too big to come out, no biggie, been in there long time, leave it long time lolol.
On another note, don’t let your car or engine sit, it can/will corrode. I JUST noticed this out of the corner of my eye, #7 exhaust lobe with fuzzy flash rust, it wiped off but the my point is the same, DRIVE YOUR CAR
That cam is done. What I did during the down time and mine sat since last summer that is when I took it apart and does sit in a garage outside of the house and it can get very wet in there during temperature changes in the spring or when i use the heater in there. First I use a heat lamp for chickens right under the the car as close as I can get to the engine and the water pump, snd this heats up the oiol filter and the area at the water pump where the line goes in from radiator. This year I added a heater to the dip stick for the oil to help keep it warm. I stuck my temp gauge I stick into the front of the intake the small one I have there and the area at the engine never got under 45 even when it got real cold down to 5 above. The point here is that kept the water off the engine during those transition periods of cold to heat in spring and during the times I heated up the garage. I think from my research of the ZDDP that you still need some of that in there and when installing a new cam whether it is roller or not. I would use break in oil for that first time out just like I am doing now. My solid cam sounds very good right now and I think it is going to run very well. Too much work right now to post up a vid but it sounds bad a**
NAAAAH She’s good to roll(er) Wonder how many people on here have flash rust on their cylinder walls and cam lobes from not driving their car for awhile and they never know? It wiped off, it’s ready for some action.
It’s not a groove or grease, it’s a discoloration of the steel from the roller, it’s actually where the spring pressure starts to rise and really push the wheel into the cam, ( my theory anyway) If you have a roller cam, yours is probably similar, you should take a look with an inspection camera, either way, nothing you can do about it.
It’s actually kinda unnerving what wear patterns you see that have developed getting back into your engine after a few thousand miles. I’m probably just one of a handful of guys on here that get back into their engine after a few thousand miles, come to think of it, probably not, to upgrade or change something that’s fine to begin with LOLOLOL I gotta learn to leave well enough alone
When I swapped in my Johnson roller lifters, my cam lobes looked that way. Tracking from the rollers.
At least the wear is minimal and I have seen the same wear marks from rollers on my machine. Sweet ,pop that sucker back together and fire it up. Looking at the run in wear patterns makes we wonder if there is a certain amount of zddp that should be run in those systems since there is still friction in the ramp areas. All of the oils have different amounts of the zddp along with the cleaners in the oil.
