Carpenters in the house? Nail gun questions

I prefer screws ...the small head torx for sinking in and not working out and tearing your feet up...but my carpenter friend from vocational school had Bosch nail guns...none of this applies to what you want I see haha...I can't see a cordless doing many good deep hits b4 needing a charge tho

 

those are likely 10d common nails with clipped heads (framing nails). Cordless nailers are cute and the finish nailers work quite good, but not for framing nails stick with a pneumatic

 

I wouldn't pay the money for a cordless framing nailer. The pneumatic are all disposable now. We barely get a year out of any brand.

 

Buy a Bostitch. You should look on Craigslist for a used one. Or check rental places. You only have one job so its not effective to buy a new one. The nails are costly enough. You won't find nailer nails that match. They come coated but not hot dipped. I bought one 30 years ago for a deck and have used it hundreds of time since.
JW had a story about nailing his hand. These have some punch so hold it down with gusto!

Edit - Thats a finish nail. Different nailer. The framing nail heads are usually "D" shaped.
They use "gauge" nails: 16 Gauge Straight Finish Nails from 1-in to 2-1/2-in Length. They are shaped differently due to the feeder. I have one of those too - great nailer!

 

You’re not going to find a finish nailer to shoot 3” nails, not in Home Depot. Pneumatic nailer will last you a lifetime. The battery framing nailers typically don’t have the strength.

 

10d galvanized 21deg, or 30 degree +++ to match the gun. Stay away from ring shank nails, smooth shank only

 

The framing nailer Fred posted is the same one I have. Only used it a few times but happy with it.

 

I have the 28 degree versions because we have a half dozen or so Bostich nailers that use the same nails. The 21 degree units are popular.

 

Keep that wood wet, literally soak it with the hose overnight if not nailing today. Gap it the thickness of a nail so it breathes

 

No, common nails

 

Best pic I could find to match that gun 21 degreee, 3" plastic collated, framing nails, again stay away from the ring shank. Finish nails would need a different gun. Brand is irrelevant.

 

Every deck I've ever owned or my daughter has owned will eventually get a bad board. They crack, rot or break and I hate pulling nailed boards up. Everything I've put back is with deck screws, usually Torx drive and often stainless steel. I rebuilt my deck completely with screws. Also, 5/4 boards were out of sight high during COVID so I found that 2x6 rounded edge lumber was cheaper by almost half. You can park a Buick on my deck if you built a ramp to it.

 

...if you're not replacing entire deck, you're pretty much committed to nails. Never seen a deck installed w/finish nails though. Fasteners need heads to keep boards flat, especially with the kind of lumber available now. Recently replaced 30 year-old boards, and new prime crap has different widths/thickness, and has already shrunk in some places more than original boards did in 30 years. I'm with hugger, torx deck screws, using cordless impact driver w/magnetic holder. Yeah, takes longer than nails, but speed's not everything. And, when it's a redeck, use sealing tape on joists...

 

I agree with the screw comments above. A few boards like in your pic will be easy. However, if you really need it to match existing (OCD), the 2 1/2 inch 16 gauge finish nails will be close. The exposed part of the head will be identical looking at the them from above. The biggest issue you will have is the depth of the head. You control the depth with the air pressure. Too much pressure and they can be an inch in! Play with it and you will find the right pressure.

 

Tore off and redid this deck with torx head deck screws.
Makes for a nice neat job.
You want nice & neat don't you?