I had the carter carb original carb rebuilt that came with my 66 Buick GS. It worked fine till I had to take off the intake to fix rusted out valley cover on the 401 nailhead then put it back together. Don't know how to tune it to keep it from sputtering out an having to keep my foot on the gas when in drive. Thank you.
did you take intake n carb off together or separate ? if all linkages etc went back on correctly ( but double check anyway, pcv hose or distributor vac hose hookup ? ) I would first check your intake gasket and carb base gaskets for any area's that may cause a vac leak . maybe some other problem popped up at the same time but I would suspect not .
An it is still cutting off when I put it into gear but we did get it going yesterday in park an it stayed at an idol again with out me holding my foot on the gas. I never had that pcv hose hooked up to the carb before an it ran fine still going to check everything again. I had it rebuilt an we added a edelbrock carb spacer an it ran good but my valley cover sprung a oil leak so I took the carb an intake off to fix the valley cover cleaned the intake with degreaser painted it an the valley cover put it all back together the way I took it off has not been right since.
2 things I can think of- 1) Intake gaskets are installed wrong- they look like they could go either way - remove intake again and check orientation. 2)Carb spacer- get original style gasket and metal shim together and try that instead of carb spacer. Good luck and let us know how it goes. Ted
yep , good ideas to check . and less gaskets = less places to leak . long shot - check bottom of intake for rust . had one we had to replace . rust hole . we thought it might have been a weak spot in casting ?
One idea popped into my mind is the switch that controls the switch pitch. If that switch got damaged or stuck in the wrong position it would stall when shifted into gear. Make sure you hear a click when you pull the throttle back at the firewall (with the engine off). Check the switch with an ohm meter, I'm not positive but I think it should be zero ohms at idle and open (high ohms) with the throttle open. If the wire going to the switch is unplugged or broken it would be in the open throttle position which could make it stall.
We got it going again finally a couple of weeks ago,Yay! Were thinking bad gas an we tune the carb a lil again but what ever it was she is running now. I have to prime the carb with a lil gas when she is cold to get her started though still but after she is running I can turn it off an back on no problem. I did put an aftermarket chrome air-breather on the carb cause the factory one the way the carb is tuned right now would bog it down while sitting in idol. With this new air-breather this car is not only running now but will fly when I push the pedal, I love the torque from this old buick!!!
We got it going again finally a couple of weeks ago,Yay! Were thinking bad gas an we tune the carb a lil again but what ever it was she is running now. I have to prime the carb with a lil gas when she is cold to get her started though still but after she is running I can turn it off an back on no problem. I did put an aftermarket chrome air-breather on the carb cause the factory one the way the carb is tuned right now would bog it down while sitting in idol. With this new air-breather this car is not only running now but will fly when I push the pedal, I love the torque from this old buick!!!
