Cannot get Flywheel and Torque Converter to mate.

I guess with a title like that I have just opened myself up to an onslaught of clinical solutions! New engine build, just dropped in on the weekend, the way the fly wheel is designed only one way to install due to flange, i can turn the TC but it does not spin freely, needs both hands, I tried pulling on the TC towards the flywheel but it will not budge, I have a 3/8 inch gap between TC and flywheel mating surface. This is same engine being hooked up to same trani. Could the bell housing all line up ok to the engine and have the TC nub misaligned with the crankshaft???? If so guess I may need to unbolt and move trani back to re align. Crap, crap, crap!! Anyone run into this before?

 

Michel, the snout of the torque converter may be too large in outside diameter, or the crankshaft has some debris or something else preventing the insertion.

Can you tell us which converter you're using, and by chance does the crankshaft have a pilot bearing installed from a previous manual transmission build?

Devon

 

As long as you can get the bolts started it should be fine. It is normal to have a gap and this gap is closed as you tighten the bolts.

If you want to make the engine easy to turn over just remove the spark plugs.

 

Devon,

Same crank and same TC from before the engine rebuild.

 

If you have a stock 200r4 converter I can do a quick check for you. If the trans is in neutral it should spin easy.
Ray

 

Sean,

So the bolts will pull the TC and flywheel together? I tried applying a bit of pressure with a pry bar, also tried turning the TC back and forth while pulling on it towards the engine, you would think the gap would close somewhat...

 

Ray it fit perfectly before the build on the engine. Yes it is stock 200r4 TC.

 

Well damn, there goes the easy stuff.

I think you're guess was right, relax the bellhousing bolts and check out the fit. With the gap between the converter and flexplate you mentioned, it sounds like the converter is happy with the front pump, so I'm at a loss too.

Devon

 

You shouldn't need to pull the converter with the bolts. I put in at least 75 transmissions in the past. If there is something binding you can have a catastrophy. Try to have a 3/16" converter/flexplate gap by using flat washers.
Ray

 

My first engine swap I ran into the same thing.... After tightening the bolts it was fine. Maybe you are trying to spin the trans backwards or are you in N?

The converter will move back out of the trans, it is on a spline. It may seem stuck but it will slide. One of the things you must do it ensure the converter is all the way into the trans before trying to bolt up the engine. Obvously you do not have this problem....:beers2:

 

It's in park. I am less concerned with the effort required to turn the TC but concerned with that gap between TC and ring gear, I would hate to warp or crack the flywheel while tightening those bolts, plus those bolts are really short, not even sure I can get them to thread into the TC. I will give it a shot on the weekend and go gently, if that TC does not budge I will unbolt the tail from the cross member, loosen the bell housing bolts and move the trani back a 1/2 inch.

 

So Ray, under normal circumstances I should be able to close the gap by pulling the TC towards ring gear with my hands? Plus if their was not washers there when I removed the engine I should not need any to put it back together..right? Also remember that the trani BH is bolted up nice and snug to the engine.

 

I won't speak for Ray, but yes, the gap between the converter & flexplate is normal.

That gap is there by design. It's there to account for a bit of expansion of the converter, engagement of the front pump, and piloting of the snout in the crankshaft.

It's usual that you can move the converter towards the flexplate by hand.

Devon

 

I learned the hard way how to set a torque converter so that its seated all the way into the trans pump.

I didn't have it all the way in and when I mated the motor and trans, the TC was tight on the flexplate, It was very difficult to turn the TC to line up the bolts. I never knew the difference. Within 3 miles, the trans pump was toast.

Fast forward a week and a bunch of money later, the trans was rebuilt
This time I had the transmission guy seat the TC.

When I installed the trans this time from under the car, There was a 3/8" gap between the flexplate and TC.
I had to pull the TC forward to meet the flexplate and bolt it on.

So yes it seems normal to have to bring the TC forward to the flexplate.
Mine was not hard to turn at all, but it was likely in neutral, not sure.

 

Curtis,

Did the bolts pull the TC to the flexplate or did you close the gap by pulling the TC 1st. As it stands I cannot move the TC forward or backwards at all with my hands. Sorry for all the questions but I am in virgin territory here.

 

yeah I can relate, that was my first transmission.. everyone remembers their first right? :beers2:

But yea, I could pull the TC forward very easily, didnt need to pry on it. It had a new front seal too.

Did you have the TC out? Did you slide it in? Was it hard to insert? If it wasnt I have to wonder why it would be hard to come out?

 

Devon I go by what Coan recommends for a maximum. I have seen a 3/8" stock or more, it's been a while and those never had issues but these were for stock applications. Here's the Coan link http://www.coanracing.com/PDFS/InstallInstructions/TransConv.pdf
Ray

 

Did not have TC out. It did slid forward a bit, when I removed the engine but I think I just pushed it back... How long is that spline? Would an inch or so be enough for it to come off the spline? I would have thought that if the TC was not properly in place that there would have been no way for that trani to bolt up snug to the block. Guys, thanks for the feedback. Much appreciated.

 

I think so too...and basically proved that... without the TC fully seated, it will be very tight to the flexplate

 

I think I may have broken rule #7 on that link.