Building Tips for Models regardless of make/model and year.

Here's a few tips i've learned to use after building a few models.
1.A good paint job always requires more than one coat in order to have a good finish, also if at all possible, 3 to 4 coats of base maybe more if needed and 2 coats of clear-good finish to all models imo.
2.Always wash and let dry before paint before and between coats, keeps the dust/dirt/hair/whatever off of the car so it don't dry with hair in it.
3.Good to get some really really fine sand paper to keep the base coats smooth and leaves a good surface for another coat-I recommend 320 grain sandpaper. Remember, do this after each base coat paint job, but make sure the paint is dry and don't do it before you paint the model, just after each basecoat except the last-either the last base coat is your finish(don't want you're paint to look dull and or scratched) or you're clear coats are your finish, dont sand clear coats either.
4.Spray paint in a can is the best paint as far as body and other major areas of the cars go, brush painting is best for smaller parts or touching up(I mean spray paint as in model paint in a spray can).
5.I learned that while painting a model, it's best to use alot of newspaper and I put my models on a paper plate, back side up-this allows me to get all areas of the car equally painted and dryed on a flat surface.
6.When glueing a model, always try to use little as possible unless a big amount is needed, otherwise glue will be showing in areas you don't want it too.
7.Be very careful when putting a model together as small parts tend to be delicate and could easily break.

Hope that was to of some help to some of you. Just wanted to share some tips you can use to make your model a good one :TU:

Feel free to add your modeling tips to this thread.

Thanks

 

I have to disagree with #4. I think an airbrush gives better results than a spray can. I airbrush all of the base colors on the parts and then hand paint the fine details.

 

Good topic, Cody! :Smarty:

I use Toothpicks, instead of a paintbrush, to apply paint to "small" parts, and also to apply glue to surfaces (to avoid getting too much applied). :Smarty:

If you really have a lot of patience, I even "upholster" the interiors, with material from a fabric store/department. Carpet, seat covers, trunk mat, dash cover, etc. :bglasses: Get creative. :TU:

Drill the engine blocks, and install an Aluminum Distributor, with spark plug "wires" (colored thread).

I mix and match cars and parts, too. I bought a Mopar Super Bee kit, just so I could use the "Stage 2" Hoodscoop for one of my GSX kits. :Brow: (It's the CLOSEST one I could find, anyway. ) :grin:

I just need to stop "collecting" the GSX's, and start BUILDING them (I just don't have much more room to DISPLAY any more GSX's, in the House OR the Garage!) ou: o No: :bglasses: :laugh:

 

LOL!

Thanks for the tips and opinions. Very helpful and creative :TU: :bglasses:

 

Cool tips. I`de like to add. I use super glue instead of model glue. An air brush is great,but spray cans are easier for most people. I like to prop the body up on top of another spray can. It holds it up high enough to get everything and it won`t stick or pull paint off the bottem edges. Another helpfull hint. Making bench seats for models that come with buckets,such as the Monogran GS. I simply cut the rear seat out of a second kits,interior tub. Then for the sides and back,you can buy very thin sheets of plastic from the hobby store,or you can use index cards. You can scribe a line up the center for the seprate seat backs an headrests from a parts kit or the GS kit. Tilt column. Cut the steering column off,at where you think it looks correct. Then either make a second cut on te BOTTEM section that you cut off,on an angle or you can use sand paper on a flat surface,hold the piece on an angle and sand it down. Becarefull to trial fit the two pieces together for correct appearence. I usually glue the pieces together to replicate the column in the up position. It will take lots of patiance and trial fitting to acheive the correct look. Don`t panic if you mess up,you can always use a piece of sprue from a kit to replace it. This is why I said to cut or sand the bottem piece. :Brow:

Good luck.
Dennis

 

1/18 die cast Makeovers

I took a 70 GSX, shaved the hood scoops and filled holes with epoxy for a Skylark hood.Left off the spoiler(filled holes) Then used a dremmel grinder to cut 1 snorkle and shape it to look like a plain air cleaner(single snout).On the next one I made it look like my 72. I used a 71 model and painted the rubbers on. I left the floor shifter out and put an auto on the tree. the only thing I didn't do was the front bench. Right now i'm in the process of rotting out a 71 to look like one of those backyard finds, dremmeled around fenders to look like rot. mis match paint on fenders.used a razor to make the windows seem cracked. trying to find a way to dent the quarter and door on one side.



I think that i'm always working on a Buick!!!!

 

These models are the metal diecast 1/18 scale ones. not plastic o No:

 

Geez, Adam, I didn't know whether to get my Sunglasses or my 3-D glasses, when I saw the above picture of that Engine Compartment! :bglasses: :laugh:

That is Beautiful work! :TU:

I especially like the detail work on the Battery terminals, the Master Cylinder lid, and the WW bottle and Overflow bottle (that should be a "clear" top, not Black, for '70, though, don't you know ) :TU: :laugh:

You know I'm only kidding (about the clear top), right? :TU:

Did you use NOS Taillight lenses, too? :laugh:

I'm not a Buick model Judge, or anything. :laugh:

 

I also use an air brush on my plastic models. It is harded to get the right mix with the paints, but a better finish. I also wet sand between coats with 1500 grit paper. Is slow, but again produces a very nice finish.
Dan :3gears:

 

Thanks for the tips everyone, keep 'em comin'!

Nice work on the model adam, very nice attention to detail :TU: