Hi guys.. I was just wondering what is the best break-in/first oil change proceedure some of you guys use...This is my first rebuild, so I want to do it right! I have about 4 hours on the motor and am wondering when to change the oil and drive it hardp I am also curious what kind of oil pressure is acceptable..I am getting about 18 at idle (750 rpm) and around 40-45 at 3000 Thanks guys,Marc
If you haven't done so already, change the oil filter!! The moly lube from the cam lobes will clog a filter quickly!!:eek2: Wouldn't be too suprised if your pressures went up a little, after changing it. I think you'll find a variety of opinions on when to change the oil and why! Definitely, change the filter though!! Did you put in a bottle of GM EOS?? If not, it would be a good idea - it has superior lubricating properties!! Personally, I'd try to get 500-1000 miles on it before really getting into it! I know...it will be tough to do!:Brow: Drive it all around - it's good to have the engine at various rpm's while getting things broken in/seated. Road trips are good, but...don't keep it at one steady speed.
Welp.. On the dyno, engines are run in for 15 minutes, with a light load on them. A couple of throttle blurps now and then during cam break-in period. Then we change oil and filter.. all the break-in of everything but the rings is long done by then. Most of it happens in the first few minutes. After that, we do a check out pull... typically from 3000-4500 or so.. then a cruise test, to check the carb primary metering systems... and then right to full power pulls, to wherever the engine in question makes power. The rings need cylinder pressure to fully seat, and that comes from load on the engine. Typically, with the good Speed Pro Plasma moly rings, and proper installation lube and cylinder finishes, the rings will be fully broke in by the end of the dyno session, if no sooner.. I never see one "breath" anything out the breathers. That means no excessive crankcase pressure from blow-by past the rings. Your oil pressure sounds a bit low.. What are the specifics of the build.. (main rod clearances/oil pump end clearance/ pressure relief spring used/ specifics of oil pump/timing cover assembly.. (stock, stock ported, TA )/ oil weight.. ect..) You may have an issue, you may not, depending on your answers to the questions .. JW
Thanks for the replies fellas...I will change the filter right away. The engine is a .40 over 400 ( I have another that I will bore to 430 when this one dies ), stock except for the lunati 224/236 cam,TA adjustable oil press. reg set with about 1/4" thread showing,stock oil pump w\.003 clearance,TA lifters,Crane dual valve springs,.002 - .003 clearance on the mains and rod bearings.( most were .002 but a couple were closer to .003):Brow: I am currently using pennzoil 10/30 but may move up in visc.....I also puchased a bronze dist. gear instead of an oil booster plate for some reason, but will be getting one soon!!!! The compession was 150 psi on all...The car runs better now that I advanced the timing ( 16 deg. 38 total at 2500 !!!) but I want to make sure my oil pressure is O.K before letting loose..:bglasses: Thanks guys, Marc
You may want to run some strait weight oil there is a rumor i've ran across that if you run anything less than strait 30 your rod bearings will go out quick.
I would say that if you have already gotten some time on it and gotten the cam broken in, don't worry about it. You have some mileage on it to get all the friction surfaces set in the way they're gonna wear, so run it pretty good to get everything to seat well. the only people I've known to have problems with new engines have been people wgo babied the engine for the first 500-600 miles. Whatever belief you have though, don't ever let it sit at a constant RPM
My bronze distributor gear wore out in about 6000 miles (I think, it was 10 years ago), so keep an eye on it if you drive your car daily. John
