If I replace my old 11" booster with a new 11" booster,can I just unbolt the MC without draining and having to rebleed my brakes? Thanks Pete
Yes, you just unbolt the master from the from of the booster and bend it down and out of the way enough to swap the boosters out, then bent back into place and tighten it back down. Don't forget about the rod that sits in the booster. It's very important. If you forget to install it, you won't have any brakes. -Josh
Not sure that Sturmgewehr is on here anymore but, have any of you guys swapped out your brake booster and left the hydraulic system closed like he was trying to accomplish? I'd prefer to keep that all buttoned up.
Yes, you can do it without removing the brake lines from the MC...but Jason is right...how long has it really been since the system has been flushed?
Sure, I've done it many times. I even swapped my 8.5 rear in that way. Pulled the axles, hung the backing plates up, and dropped the rest of the rear. Put the new rear up, popped the backing plates on, and installed the axles. No messing with brake lines, or parking brake cables. Nice easy swap. There is plenty of room to swap the booster, it's no problem at all. BadBrad can do it easily:grin:
True, but if your going to change the brake fluid and flush the system, you can go ahead and get the master out of the way by removing it. Its a bit of a PITA to have it in place.
True true true - did it just last year; I seem to go through a MC every 5 to 7 years. Anyway, did it last year when the MC was puking out the back end and into that rubber seal between the booster and the MC. I'm now thinking that just changing that seal might solve the trouble. It might have been compromised by the brake fluid; started leaking air about five months later. Too much coincidence there to not check it out. It all acts pretty weird. Can hear the booster leaking air until I put pressure on the pedal. I pinched off the vacuum line and found no change in engine speed so I think the seal from manifold to booster is still good. Braking performance remains perfect. Thanks for the advice guys.
i all can say is do not over bend and kink the brake lines. do not forget to detach the brake pedal first. the brake booster is not the easiest unit to remove. u need a short boxend wrench which i happened to have to remove the engine side nuts. reattaching the brake lines clamp to the booster is a real pain in the a$$. i replace the m/c & the booster in my gs 10 days ago.
