My '72 350'' has a non-original 4-bbl carb on it. From the hard to read numbers it could come from a chevy, if I my carb-info is correct, but the digits are stamped in twice, with half a digits space in between, which makes them very hard to read. But (until prooven otherwise) I'm sure that it does not belong to a Buick engine. Therefore I have bought a 1971 "GS" 4-bbl from a guy on eBay, plus a nos carb kit (Sorensen I think) from another guy. My plan is to rebuild this old Buick carb (if I can manage), but for starters I can't seem to find anywhere to get this "carb-cleaner" I've been reading about in this forum. What is it and where to get it? Whenever I see a picture of a rebuild carb, it just shines like new (or better). I guess there is a secret to that? In the rebuild kit is an instruction on "how to", and to me it looks like I might be able to succeed following that one. Are there any specifics that I have to watch out for on the way. I don't expect it to be an easy job, and it's also my first time, so I'll just take my time to do it, but I guess I may avoid a few problems with Your help. Another thing: I kind of like these 4-bbl Rochesters. Are there any major advantages in using a Holley or maybe Carter????? Thanks, Stig.
First off, NO to Holley. The Rochester or Carter carb is the way to go based on what came on the vehicle. I strongly suggest obtaining a copy of the Doug Roe book on these carbs. You can get the cleaner from many parts places, but it may come in a large can. Get the basket if at all possible. Be very aware of the disassembly process, taking pictures if possible, noting the placement of certain parts and adjustments. Put nothing but metallic parts in the solution, being sure to clean everything. Carefully cleanse everything in water afterwards, and blow everything dry before reassembly. Take the time to blow out small passages, looking for "exit wounds" where the solvent exits the other end somewhere. Reassemble the reverse of disassembly, carefully noting where everything fits; trial fitting is recommended. Good luck and don't be afraid to ask questions. Asking questions is better than messing something up, or worse, breaking something difficult to replace. This is really an adventure, and a good tour guide is invaluable.
When swapping that carb onto your engine it will need to be properly jetted for your engine. We can get you into the ball park when you are ready. Be prepared to give us your altitude and engine identification code. Primary jetting is something you'll do when the carb is apart. Do you know if that Carb is from a 350 or a 455? There are slight differences. That "shine" on a 34 year old carburetor is often the result of a professional re-dye job. A good cleanup with carb cleaner will work pretty good at bringing back a shine assuming the carb currently has a protective coating of fuel varnish, oil, etc. If it has corrosion only a re-dye will help.
Ray, Thanks for the tip on the Doug Roe book. I'll look for one on eBay. And Yes, I probably will come up with questions along the way. I'm glad about the "NO to Holley". I've been looking for this carb-cleaner stuff on the internet, but can only find some "seafoam" to mix with the gas?! Can You give me some links to stores that have what I need, and will ship worldwide. I'd appreciate it. BadBrad, About this jetting-procedure: altitude and engine id-code (which one?), and what other info about the engine (heads?, intake?, cam?, ignition? etc....)...I don't know all the specs on my engine yet. The carb was listed as "1971 Buick GS 350 Carburetor, 7041544" when I bought it. I asume the "350" is correct. What is the difference to the 455''? Is the carb-kit I bought any good at all? I've checked and it says: "Sorensen Quick-Kit with resilient tip". Inside it says "Borg-Warner". Do I have to buy another (larger) kit instead? I've read about some kind of "spacer" between carb and intake. What is it good for? Is it something with the temperature or is it about the flow. That's it (for now I guess). Stig.
Quadrajet Excellent Choice!!! I can rebuild them with my eyes shut. A very reliable carburetor. A good source for carb kits and jet changes is "the carb doctor". He sell the factory kits and the thicker top bowl gaskets to compensate for bowl wrarpage. The bigist thing on them is if the carb was exposed to the outside elements. AL.
Title of roe carb book? Could anyone tell me/us the exact title of the Roe carb book? And where to find it! :TU:
Book Title? There is 1 listed at Summit Racing titled " Rochester Carburetors" written by Doug Roe. I'm not sure if that is the 1 though, although it would seem likly to be. I too am looking for the book as my carb needs to be rebuilt also. Dan :3gears:
Rochester Book You can pick one up at Borders Book Stores or probably other book stores. Just got mine last week at Borders for $18.95. Dave
Quadrajet Question Jerry, why are you looking for the book. All the information on you GSs carb is in your large service manual, AL.
Here it is, and it's way better than the Chassis manual. Tuning and diassembly info. The main difference between the small and big block carbs is the jetting, and the idle system capacity.
Information, information... guess I was told to read it :Smarty: Anyway, noticed the carb inlet leaks due to a slight stripping (if there is such a thing as a slight stripping). also the choke assembly looks damaged and a pal of mine says he has one for a 70 block i can have for a song. He 's bringing it to me on saturday, i'm already watching for him (it's tuesday night now) :grin: :TU:
Rochester Book Interesting to see the cover of the Rochester Book. I have a book with same title but different picture. Its by Doug Roe and Bill Fisher.Dated 1973 U.S.A. Different book or are the changes reprints. Sorry to butt in. All The Best. Tony.
The Roe book... Last week I got me a fine used copy of the Doug Roe Rochester book in the mailbox. I found it on eBay for $4.95,- (thanks again for the tip, Ray). :TU: It has a lot more information on these carbs than the Buick manual, allthough that would do fine for starters. Even I should have a chance to learn something from Doug Roe. His book is very detailed and covers a lot of years/models. I'm still looking for a place to get the right carb-cleaner before I start my rebuild. Any suggestions ? o No: Stig.
Back in the day we used GUNK. Comes in a pretty big can (like a gallon paint can) and has a parts basket/strainer for the little stuff. Can you get it over there? Hmmm...... maybe not. Last one I did was just with a spray can of Berrymans. I've put a few Holleys through the dishwasher - don't want to let them dry in there though - gotta blow out the orifices with air before they dry.
Badbrad: In the dishwasher...!? (I don't think she'd like if I used the one in the kitchen :spank: ) I have not heard of either GUNK or "Berrymans", but I'll try looking for it now. Overhere no one seems to know anything at all about carbcleaner. Most of them just go and by a new Holley instead...hmmmm. I'll stick to rebuild my Rochesters. I'm trying to find some cleaner on eBay, maybe located in the UK to reduce shipping. A gallon in a can on a boat across the Atlantic is absolutely possible, but will probably cost much more than the cleaner itself. I'll give it a few weeks more, and then I'll consider using painthinner or something like that. That should at least remove the greasy stuff from the carb, right. Stig.
The best carb. soak type cleaner I've found is CRC Thyme. It comes in gallons and four gallon pails. The four gallon pail has the basket in it. Be careful to only put metal parts in as RAbarrett mentioned. Even metal parts with teflon coatings should not be soaked. This cleaner is mildly caustic and will remove gaskets, anything rubber, teflon etc. If you are interested I will get the parts numbers for you..... let me know.
Did a search on Berrymans on the net and found their site :TU: . Looks like Berrymans spraycan carbcleaner would be the way to go for me. They have the size to be shipped at resonable shippingcosts. I've sent them an email a couple of days ago, so now I'm waiting for a reply :sleep: . Later, Stig.
