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  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
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body work rookie!!!

Discussion in 'Color is everything!' started by Slick65, Nov 8, 2004.

  1. Slick65

    Slick65 Well-Known Member

    OK I've got a 65 skylark! The mechanical work is no problem. SO I'm ready to tackle something new, something with a learning curve!
    My 65 needs driver side floor replaced, I have the replacement panels, I can weld, but am not great at it!
    Is there a manual I can get to show me the do's and don'ts of doing floors, the body is pretty fair, with a few dents and I would like to try to fix myself. This isn't for the sake of being cheap, its for the sake of learning something new and the satisfaction of doing it myself.
    Any guidance, or advice is greatly appreciated! Thanks guys! :cool:
     
  2. 1967 Big Buick

    1967 Big Buick One day at a time.

    This is what i'd do if i were you: The first thing would be to trim up your new panels to where it fits the best over the original.(because most new panels are larger than the size you need).Then once your happy with the way it fits over the original, proceed to scrib a line all the way around the perimeter. Now remove the panel and use masking tape as i guideline either 1/2" or 3/4" . Tape the panel on the inside* of your line all the way around, now once you have done that you are ready to start cutting and drilling your spot welds if neccessary.....but remember to cut out the area opposite of the scrib line that you have. That way the new piece doesn't fall right through.(that would be a headcahe) Now that you've cut the opening to just under 1/2" or 3/4" under the size of your panel.... proceed to clean up the area with a grinder or sandbsandblaster (messy). Now you have a few of choice's : mig weld - braze - or glue the panel. Glue would be the easiest and but welding would be best. Remember to pre-fit your panel again once you feel you are ready to weld/glue. I always run a couple of self tapping screws in place just to get an ideal of what i'm up against. Once it is secured i hammer and dolly the areas to be welded/glued to insure a tight fit. Now it's time to join the patch panel to it's new resting place. Have fun and if there is anything i might have forgotten somebody else will probably post something.


    *INSIDE ----> means closest the ground or floor area. Very important.


    Oh yes one more thing before you start joining the panel ..... "PREP" the panel by sanding both sides, that way you aren't standing on your head after it's all done. Use some etch primer and that way when your done your welding you don't have much work after that. Put some undercoat on it and stand back and pat yourself on the shoulder for a job well done. The first one i ever did made me feel great and now after 18 years of doing this stuff i just feel NOTHING :grin:

    GOOD LUCK AND IF YOU HAVE ANY OTHER QUESTION JUST POST THEM ! :TU:
     
  3. Slick65

    Slick65 Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the reply!!! That is exactly the kind of info I need. I feel confident I can do the work, just need someone with knowledge to throw in some helpfull tips, eg. what procedure to do first, second etc...
    I'm heading out to the shop now, so if I have any fingers left when I get back, I'll post my progress!!! :laugh:
     
  4. xhp734

    xhp734 Hearing the Voices again.

    Hello Slick65.
    I'm new to this site and have been looking around to learn what I can to prepare for restoring my '65 Skylark as well. Your postings have been the closest to what I've been looking into, so I'm really interested to hear about your progress, especially on the body repairs. Would you mind posting your restoration adventures as you go?
     
  5. Slick65

    Slick65 Well-Known Member

    Hello 734! Well I can post it but you won't likely learn much from me, except how to make mistakes :TU: This is my first resto, so i've got a lot to learn!
    I just ordered my trunk floors, and hope to have them by the 22nd, so I have something to do over the holidays.
    So far most of my work has involved the frame and chassis work, I've sandblasted and painted the frame, suspension pieces, rebushed the suspension, installed new coil springs all around, new shocks, converted the front to disc brakes, and just this week the shop finished a complete rebuild of my 401 nailhead.
    Where abouts are you on your resto, and how are things coming along? What do you plan on doing?
     
  6. xhp734

    xhp734 Hearing the Voices again.

    Hello Slick65.
    I'd made a bunch of repairs years back, but when I get the car hauled down here for me to resume, I'm going to regard myself as being on Step 1. If it weren't for the missing windshield, the Skylark would be legal and roadworthy. The restoration is for the sake of the body, which has deteriorated pretty badly from rust. After that, I'll be replacing the automatic transmission with a manual, restoring the interior (lots of weather damage), changing to disk brakes (what did you use and how well did it fit in?), and making some other customizations. Nothing too fancy, I just want to turn it back into a safe, comfortable, and powerful ride. Looking forward to taking my wife for rides in it up the coast since I lack the balance to ride a motorcycle. ;-)
    Aside from sandblasting, are there any paint-stripping products that you've used? I used to strip paint and rust off with a wire-wheel on my hand-grinder (chemicals made me skeptical), but there were always those little hard-to-reach places to deal with and I always wound up pulling "freed" wires from my skin and clothes for days afterwards. I've decided to become more open-minded about chemical strippers and am starting to study the products and protection.
     
  7. r72gs

    r72gs Another project........

  8. Slick65

    Slick65 Well-Known Member

    I haven't stripped the body yet, I want to soda blast the body, I took a front fender in to see how it would come out, its kind of neet! It doesn't seem to rip off a top layer of metal like sand does, just the paint, and it gets every little corner, and edge off.
    I wanted to get mine done before the snow flew, but I was a little slow, I have enough other little things I could do to it until spring to keep me busy, so I'll get it done then.
    As far as my brakes, well, I pieced it togeather from about 4 different swap meets.
    1-Rotors and Pads from a fellow who was selling a 71 Chevelle, (brand new rotors and bendix pads in trunk) I bought them 1/2 price of new.
    2-Spindles I think are off of a 69 Nova or something, (Nova/Camaro same thing)
    3-The booster and master cyl, are off of a 71 GS another fellow was parting out.
    4-I bought new calipers- seals bearings etc.
    I have no idea if this thing will stop or not, but first I have to work on getting it moving! :3gears:
     
  9. xhp734

    xhp734 Hearing the Voices again.

    :laugh:
    I guess I'm just too conservative/careful/boring. I'd make sure that I could stop first.

    Hey r72gs - thanks for those links. I found lots of good stuff in there.

    Soda blasting? How does that compare to (glass) bead-blasting?
     
  10. Superbenjamin

    Superbenjamin ANY BUICK SKYLARK

    Soda blast

    I'm a rookie. Right now I'm getting my car running right but in between that i work on the body as well. So I was wondering what is soda blasting & glass bead blasting and what does it involve? Can i do it myself?
     

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