I have a nailhead block and crank that I want to sell, and need to identify them(year) The Block has these numbers stamped on the valley pan gasket surface ( J 49) (4J3024328) cast in the back of the block are (B 1848048) Possible date code- (1 3I) Crank has this casting number (1361798) Thanks for any help. Greg
This is off the topic but are you really Greg Gessler the guy thats running in the F.A.S.T. drag class with the 72 455 GS Stage 1 running what mid 11's? If so hi and nice to meet you? You do head work? Id like to ask you some questions if you dont mind?
Hi Greg - According to Cars Inc's website page found Here, 1361798 is a crank for 1964 thru 1966 400, 401, and 425 engines. Based on the crank, and assuming the crank came out of the block, Buicks.net has nailhead block casting numbers. The numbers they list do not agree with what you have. Check it out. They also have a page found Here on where to look for the motor stampings (an additional clue to the engine) Enjoy. PS - How about registering your '72? You can send me an e-mail - 455stage1@comcast.net. See you June 7th if not sooner...
Nailhead Crank Greg, Check the outside to outside width across the crank flange (where the flexplate mounts). 2.5" across the flange means it is a 64 and up crank, and a dimension larger then 2.5" across the flange means it is a 63 and earlier crank. I still believe you have a 63 engine. Let us know what you find out! Cheryl
Head Work Ok, I got a 76 455 smog engine I know there one of the more desirable engines because they have bigger oil passages, because the earlier models had oiling problems but heres my question. What would I have to do to the heads and pistons and pushrods etc. to make the engine a stage 1. Obviously your doing something right if your is running mid 11's and its staying together anyone can make a fast engine but staying together is the key. Also I live in Arizona and about 15 minutes from TA Performance, what are your feelings about that shop. The engine is on an engine stand and is completely stripped besides the pistons and crankshaft. Im just wondering what you would think the best components would be in really making a trick engine. Im not going for stock but im probably going to use the stock heads. Any information would be greatly appreciated. By the way the engine will be going into a 72 skylark:Brow: You have a really slicked and tricked out ride and keep making those hemi guys scared when they see you at the track:grin
Re: Nailhead Crank Cheryl, Thanks for the PM and help! The crank flange has a 2.5" dia. 'hub' that protrudes out and looks to have a large 2 piece pilot bushing installed. The flat, machined flange surface, where the flywheel or flex plate would physically bolt to has a dia. of approx 4.5". Does this make sense? Also what difference does the early crank have from the later, other than requiring a different style flywheel/flex plate?
Marco, Thanks for the info. Due to 40 years of crud i misread the block numbers the correct block numbers are: B 1349046 / code JR which was a 63 2bbl 401 engine. the crank appears to be a 64-66 model. I promise that I will register my Stage 1 with you, let me know what type of info do you need, if its just the original options, it might be easier to tell you when I see you.
Re: CRANK The crank has been freshly cut .010/.010 on the mains and rod journals. I have currently someone that contacted me about buying the block and crank. Check back with me in a month, If I still have them, I'll sell the crank if your interested.
Re: Head Work Call me Mon-Fri after 5PM to discuss this engine, it would take too long to write it all out. Basically heads are junk and you need to use 67-74 heads. I have never had any engine work done by TA, but I hear they do good work. I have always been satisfied with the quality of their parts. Their new Alum stage one heads are nice! Believe it or not, The HEMI boys and I get along very well. If we all lived closer together, we would probably be good friends. They are real sharp guys, and we ALL enjoy the competition. Sure I like to win, but I'm happy as long as my car is running what I feel is good. I don't think that I scare them, but the racing is always interesting!
the number listed below (908 362-7692? 5pm your time? Im sure you guys get along wasnt doubting that but i doubt they're not scared of you car. Car guys are car guys we all get along its all in fun but im sure they get nervous haha.
Engine/Crank ID Greg, I am glad to assist someone that has helped so many of us go faster! I have attached a picture of a 64 crank flange, crank and manual trans bushing. This should help you identify it for sure. The manual transmission bushing is stepped. That may be what you see or feel. Was the flat side to the outside or inside of the crank? I am told it should be flat side out, but I would like some precedence since I will be installing the bell housing and trans on my 425 shortly (there is nothing in the manual). The bolt pattern on the flange is the same between the cranks. Only the hub dimension and countersunk pilot hole dimension are different. The other difference is not between the early and late cranks, but in the thrust bearing and the accommodating block and main machining. The thrust bearing have the same width, but the 64-66 bearing is.060 taller then the 59-63 bearing. I gather this spread the thrusting forces over a wider area to reduce wear and fatigue. The main and block receiving areas for the bearing had a larger radius machined to accept the taller bearing. I would assume the later crank would drop in the early block as long as the bearing was for the early block. I also think the reverse is true for the early crank in the later engine, but I have not done either. As usual, good answers lead to more questions. Cheryl
To make it easier,:grin: Heres a picture of the crank. The pilot bushing appears to be made out of a bronze colored outer ring with a steel center. I think its a 64 and up crank. Trying to sell these parts has given me a quick education in nailhead cranks.
