Block Coolant Drain Plugs Location

Well, I found out this weekend why my engine wouldn't start. We turned the engine over to put #1 at TDC and guess what, the rotor was pointed at tower #4 in the cap. I hate when that happens.
So, I need to swap out the timing chain and I need to drain the block of coolant. Where are the coolant drain plugs on the sides of the block? I cannot find the location of the drain plugs in the manual, and I do not want to randomly start loosening things on the sides of the engine.
Also, I have a stubborn water pump to engine block bolt. Any suggestions to help loosen it? I have a battery powered impact, but it is too long to fit in the available space. I already twisted one bolt head off (rear AC compressor pivot bolt), and I do not want to repeat that lesson. :rant:

Thanks,

 

Don't you just unhook the lower radiator hose to drain the block?

 

Thanks, Jason. Are the plugs towards the front, middle, or rear of the block? I hate to ask the obvious question, but yaknow, I already twisted the head off one bolt, I don't want to wrench on any more bolts than I need to.....

Thanks,

 

Thanks!

 

removing the block drain plugs allows for a more complete draining and flushing. do not brake them off. these suckers seem to seize in over the years.

 

In the past, I have installed radiator petcocks in the block drain locations. This makes draining the block a snap.

When you put new (long) bolts in the water pump, apply anti-seize to the entire shaft of the bolt. I have broken a few of these over the years, and it is not fun. As for getting the old corroded bolts out, try heating them with a propane torch, (not too hot) and spray behind the head with penetrating oil while hot. The heat should promote greater capillary action, and draw the oil into the gaps and into the threads. Have a fire extinguisher close at hand.

 

Mike
What year block do you have,the later ones do not have side drain plugs?
Why do you think you need to change the timing chain?
You'll likely break that bolt,I've ground off the head then removed the cover,sometimes difficult,then heated the
bolt.You'll have plenty of shank to hold onto.
gary

 

I was looking at this 350 block that I am building and like the 455 where I have drain cocks, I cant find a location to put drain cocks in this block unless I drill and tap them for it. Any ideals?

 

I stick my shop vac in the water pump outlet, with a wet rag wrapped around the hose for a seal. Maybe I don't get every drop... but I also don't have to drill holes in my engine block.

 

Sorry for the slow response, work has had me distracted this past week.
My block is a 67.
The rotor was pointing at 2o'clock when we put the motor at TDC. :eek2:
Cutting the head off the bolt is an interesting idea. :Smarty:

Thanks,

 

Did you pull the distributor? maybe the pin holding the gear is sheared?
Is the timing chain gear stock nylon?
If its a steel chain gear and the pin is ok,I'd re-time the motor setting it at TDC and re-install the distributor having the rotor pointing a little past #1 spark plug wire.
gary

 

Pulled the distributor, the pin is OK.
I am betting money that it is the stock nylon timing gear, we'll find out later today when we pull the timing cover.

Yesterday I tried pulling the drain plug out of the driver's side of the block. All I was successful in doing is rounding off the head of the bolt.
Mental note to self, purchase a set of flank drive sockets for use when loosening stubborn bolts/nuts. Twelve point sockets will round bolt hexs'. ou:

Thanks,

 

I found the reason why my distributor's rotor was out of phase and why my car wouldn't start. Yesterday we removed my timing cover and found.....



.....the crank is at TDC and you can see where the timing mark landed up on the camshaft gear. The camshaft gear had skipped 7-8teeth. And notice that there are no teeth left on the camshaft gear. We removed the timing chain without removing either gear.
So now we need to pull the pan to clean all of the nylon shards out of the bottom of the oil pan, and once we get it all together do a compression check to see if I bent any valves.
The joy of owning a forty-five year old car.

Thanks,