Top started to struggle. I see air gaps in the lines and decided to bleed lines. Motor runs about 3 minutes than over heats. Lines are not moving air gaps in the lines and the hydraulic cylinders are not moving when motor running. No leaks in line...Do I have a weak motor? weak O-rings somewhere? Help spring is here:beer
What is fluid o matic and where can you get it? Is it possible to loosen the lines to the cylinders and work the motor to bleed air out?
If your sure there is no leak than your motor is probably on its way out. I just followed the factory chassis manual for refilling the lines after replacing them, with no bleeding needed. Now it works like new. Russ
You can make your own fill tool. You need two people to do this. You find a piece of vacuum tube that fits snugly into the fill hole on the tank/pump. Then you take a quart of trans fluid, remove the lid, drill a hole for the vacuum line to fit snugly into. Stick the line a small way through the lid and replace the lid onto the quart of fluid. Insert the other end into the tank, you now have a remote reservoir connected by a leak proof line. I think you see the line needs to fit snugly/tight on both ends. While someone sits inside and runs the pump you are in the trunk and turn the quart of fluid upside down and hopefully higher than the tank. As the pump runs it will fill itself with fluid and "burp" the air in the lines back into the quart bottle. After running it up and down a couple times it is full and air free. You will know when you no longer get air, then the job is done. When you have finished filling and burping, put the top DOWN or nearly all the way down, then you need to remove the hose and replace the fill plug. The top needs to be down because when the top is up it needs the most fluid, that is why there is fluid in the reservoir. If you replace the plug with the top up it will blow something up on the way down and make a mess and break something. Actually I believe that is why they use the later mentioned rubber plug in the tank, so it will act as a pressure relief valve in case you over fill it. This can be somewhat messy so plan ahead to try to prevent the mess, piece if plastic and rags or paper towels to catch it. These sometimes have a rubber plug in the tank for a fill plug, they can get old and brittle, sometimes they break and leave part in the reservoir/tank. That will be OK, it will just float harmlessly in there and not bother a thing, but you will need a replacement in advance,,,if it is rubber. Good luck. BTW I bought a fancy fill tool but never used it, this works well so I didn't need a fancy tool. If you want my tool with the instructions, in the original box it will cost you $45 shipped. It is called "Fluid O Matic". Good luck, and pictures of the fluid o matic tool could be posted/sent. My email is on here.
I am leaning the direction that the motor is on it way out. It runs smooth then grinds in pain, then fine again. I also disconnected the hydraulic cylinders from the convertible frame to allow no pressure. Motor appears to be an original.
I had the same problem with my 70 lark. I bought a new line kit and 1 new piston. I followed the manufacturers directions but the top wouldn't go up. After several attempts on a 85 degree day I called it quits. I called the company and they said 2 try with the pistons disconnected. I'll try it asap. 4 now I will just raise and lower with a friend.
I had my system out and all disconnected... it should not need bleeding as such. Fill the fluid reservoir and run the motor. The fluid should be pumped pushing the air to the cylinder, though the cylinder and then back to the pump where it will bleed its self out because it will only suck fluid in the resevoir not air. Just make sure its full. Fill it unitl fluid spills out via the rubber plug on the passenger side.
