Jason, Thanks a bunch for posting that info. I see it can be a few more things than the O2 sensor. This car always runs funny if I got some bad fuel. I hope that all the fuel being sold around here is bad or not what is supposed to be. Looks like it could be cause by an exhaust leak also. I did just replace the exhaust. I think I might have a friend that has a scanner to check the voltages. I don't think I will get a chance to work on it until after Carlisle swap meet. I must have about 20 to 25 spaces worth of stuff at my house and I am sharing 3 spaces with a friend uzzled: . I should be on that show Hoarders :eek2: :eek2: . I will have a few Buick parts going with me. I will get a list of what I have on another post. Today I have a friend coming over to try and clean my 3 car barn out. I told my wife the mess will get worse before it gets better :Smarty: . I can't wait until it is organized and I can get the cars in and out easy. If I can't get the scanner I might change the O2 sensor and see what happens. Stupid Autozone did not have a scanner for testing for my car. They wanted me to buy one for $30. I don't want this car to be an endless money pit. Rob
Thanks for posting. Hopefully I will sell this mid 80's car this summer and I will no longer have to worry about pulling codes :idea2: The car needs more attention than I can give it. I need to start on my Buick's next :beers2:
Brian, I tried to heat the car up well. I drove it 20 miles and when I got there they must of had my car running for 10 to 15 minutes before they even tested it. It reminded me of the old days before the dyno. Every single car would have the same thing done. Flash forward many years and I was the odd ball with the only 80's car :error: . Like you said I am lucky. Plus I have a lot of great help from this site. Thanks, Rob
Don't need a code reader or scanner. You already did it. code 44 is the only code present. As for the o2's alot of people have bad things to say about the Bosch sensors, but we used them on our car and they worked perfectly. The trick is to get matched sets. If one is bad and you swap it than the new one may read quicker and more accuritely than the old one on the other side. If that happens you'll get the same code back because the ecm thinks the old sensor is bad now. I'm guessing you already tested the egr valve to make sure it's working right?
Please let me know how to test the egr valve. I just don't have time now to do a search on-line. Thanks, Rob
Here's a quick little writeup with pics someone did. I always just use the press the diaphram test http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/egrvalve.htm
Man what a pain to install the O2 sensor. I had to lay on top of the engine for a half hour. I am sure there must be a trick of special tool. Thanks for posting about the EGR. Rob
Wait a minute.....there are 3 nuclear plants in Japan emitting dangerous amounts of radiation contaminating the world not to mention Chernobyl along with countless volcanos spewing harmful gasses into the atmosphere, but all your State is worried about is your little car? uzzled: Just kidding!
I grew up a car nut in B'ham, and moved to Austin 30 years ago. I still remember all the wrecked cars, and others, driving around with lights out. There are many states with no or minimal inspection requirements: States without safety or emissions inspections Alabama (limited) Arkansas Florida Iowa Kansas Kentucky Michigan Minnesota Montana North Dakota Oklahoma South Carolina South Dakota Wyoming
Looks like the O2 did the trick :beers2: :beers2: . It is still running a little funny uzzled: It used to only run this way when I had some bad gas or not enough octane :eek2: Seems like it is doing it not as bad with the new O2 sensor I wonder if the are doing something to the gas I am buying :rant: :rant: :rant: I am paying for high test and is that what I am really getting
