I need to rewire my car to pass NHRA tech inspection as it currently will not. I'll be following a wiring diagram from M.A.D. Enterprises that shuts of the car when the remote battery disconnect is switched off but still allows residual alternator output power to return to the battery. My existing M.A.D. battery box holds a Sears die hard mounted in the trunk which I purchased several years ago. It is not a sealed box nor do I have a sheet metal firewall separating the trunk from the passenger interior. I have just purchased the blue plastic moroso sealed externally vented battery box which is NHRA approved. My question is if you run a sealed optima battery do you still need to have a sealed externally vented battery box like the moroso to pass NHRA tech inspection? I have also heard that IHRA and NHRA have different rules for batteries in the trunk. Thanks Greg
No you don't have to have the sealed battery in an externally vented battery box to meet NHRA tech requirements. My trunk mounted battery is held in place with an aluminum framed foundation and aluminum cross brace and two 3/8" rods. They do require a certain thickness of bulkhead between the trunk and passenger compartment if you have a fuel cell in the trunk. Depending on material used, steel or aluminum, dictates thickness, aluminum being thicker.
battery Thanks for the reply, It would be nice not to have to redo my existing setup. I was just looking at http://www.nhra.com/contacts/tech_faq.html website and found this. It says I need a sealed/vented box. I don't have a fuel cell in the trunk. I wonder if the sealed optima battery negates having a sealed/vented box. copied from there website. below I have a street car that I occasionally run at the strip. I've relocated the battery to the rear. What else do I need? Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050
Greg I simply ran a 6 gauge wire from the alernator to one terminal of the master swith then from the other to the battery......Car charges and will stop running when the switch is pushed off.
Greg, Page 221 section 8.1 of NHRAs 2006 rule book. In lieu of rear firewall, battery may be located in a sealed .024-inch steel, .032-inch alumnium, or NHRA-accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and must be vented outside of body. Relocated battery(s) must be fastened to frame or frame structure with a minium of two 3/8 inch-diameter bolts. Metal battery hold down straps mandatory. strapping tape prohibited.
That is the same way i wired my car but the only thing think i don't like is that the wire is always live to the back of the alt. if something ever happen to that wire it is live volts there so i put a 30 amp fuse on it....
One other thing that people forget that if you have rear shelf speaker you need to seal them off as well. on my 64 post car I made it to meet NHRA rules :TU: if it passes NHRA it WILL pass IHRA. At our local track I have seen so many guys sent home because the shut of switch was not hooked up correctly. In tech the inspector told the guy he was going to test his switch :eek2: as the inspector walked up to the window to tell him to go home he had already shut off the switch before he said he was going to so the driver never had a chance for a cut off hehehe :ball:. Do it right and TEST it with the car running before you go to the track and you will be much happier. With mine i plan to have a push off switch and when i am on the street, i will just unscrew the push rod and put a emblem over the hole for a clean look. My fire wall and speaker boxes completely seal my trunk off, it takes a lot of tire smoke to find the little holes that may exist :TU: Ken
We bought everything from MAD as well. He will send you everything you need all in one box with diagrams and plenty of written instructions.
M.A.D. wiring design I have just about everything to do the job from M.A.D. including his strip/street wiring diagram. Mark Hamilton at MAD is full of information and good quality wiring stuff. Looks like I need to install the blue NHRA moroso battery box in my trunk. I'm going to try to use the mounting brackets from the MAD battery box I have already as it's quite a nice secure piece. I just received an email from NHRA when I asked if the optima battery lets you get around the rule " Unfortunately, the battery design does not exempt you from this rule. All relocated batteries must be installed is a sealed battery box; or have a steel or aluminum bulk head, to separate the trunk from the driver compartment." Thanks for everyones input. I'll be wiring in Jan.... Later Greg
