Odyssey AGM (formerly Northstar, manufactured by Enersys) is the best you can buy. Expensive for a reason. 840 CCA. TPPL (thin plate pure lead) construction.
That is the battery I run as well. Being it is mounted in the trunk I wanted the strongest, lightest battery I could find. So far it fits the bill perfectly. Cliff
When these vehicles were new, the "rule of thumb" was to have about the same number of cold cranking amps as there were cubic inches in the engine. A 455 engine would use a battery with at least 450-ish CCA. This was considered entirely satisfactory for vehicles used in extreme cold weather. Warmer weather allowed smaller batteries. Montana--Minnesota needed the big ones, Florida and Texas could get by with less. The only reason for a "big" battery is to have sufficient power in cold weather--cold decreases battery power at the same time that the engine becomes harder to crank due to metal contraction, and stiff oil. Once the starter is done cranking, even a small battery is fine for keeping the engine running--essentially, the vehicle is powered by the alternator, not the battery. One exception would be that a big battery has more reserve capacity so the vehicle would drive farther if the alternator failed. Along about 1977 or so, JCPenney advertised a 600 CCA battery for automobiles. Came in a Group 27 physical size. Our brains exploded. SIX HUNDRED CCA? What (automobile) engine could need that much battery? For the record, Group 27 is a huge battery by automotive standards. Group 24, for example, was more common. From that time onward, CCA ratings for batteries got bigger and bigger, even though engines got smaller and smaller, and the starter motors drew LESS current from the battery. It's gotten to the point of silliness. Optima batteries were nice, years ago when they were made in Colorado. Powerful, long-lasting. I had one that went ten-plus years. Now, and for the last decade or more, they're made in Mexico, and they're high-failure JUNK. Stay the hell away from Optima. When it's me, I tend to buy batteries made by East Penn/Deka. I used to like Interstate, but they've gone down-hill too. REAL "Delco" batteries used to be very good, but aftermarket Delco batteries are imported. Delco doesn't make batteries any more. Make sure you verify the ENTIRE starting/charging power team. Alternator maximum voltage and current output, regulated output, lack of "ripple" or AC voltage, and no current drain when not spinning. Check starter amperage draw during cranking. Verify battery capacity with a load-tester, and assure there's no parasitic drains on the battery including through the vehicle circuitry, or through the conductive slime that builds-up on the battery itself. And assure that the wire harness that connects all those parts does not have excess voltage drop. Off-the-car testing of alternators, starters, batteries is NOT a good way to verify the starting/charging power team, because it does not include the vehicle wiring; and in many cases does not properly load the parts being tested. It's a no-brainer method of selling parts, though. Any pimply-faced high-school dropout behind the Parts Counter can be trained to look like he's using The Machine to test your starter/alternator/battery.
My 98 Riviera uses a huge battery that is located under the rear seat. It's a Group 79 battery with a closed venting system that exits under the car. I bought the car in 2004 with the original Delco battery. It gave up in 2009, and I replaced it with another Delco right from the Dealer. It lasted until 2020. So the 2 batteries that this car has had, have lasted 11 years. When I replaced the battery in 2020, I used a Costco Interstate replacement. Just as big and powerful on paper as the Delcos, Group 79, same venting system. Not sure I'll own the car long enough to see if the Costco battery makes it even half as long as the first two batteries. The car is pushing 212K, and the NY winters have taken it's toll on the underside.
Deka also supplies batteries for NAPA, and least the higher-end line. My preferred brand as well. I did buy a battery for my Kubota from Tractor supply on clearance for $79. It lasted 2 months, voltage drops to under 11v after charging and won't crank. Good thing it had a 90 day warranty. I may just get a 59-er from WalMart, at least it has a 1 year warranty.
I use Delco or any other flat top batteries that allow me to use the R69 toppers for that stock look. My motor with 10.5 compression cranks super fast with the light weight LT1 starter. Our cars don't need lots of CCA.
I've used Interstate (highest CCA for size) in all my cars for the past 30-ish years. The only vehicle I have issues with them in, is the Suburban. For some reason it eats one up after 2-years, no matter what brand. I just return it for a new one under the warranty, when it starts acting up. Hopefully replacing the stereo amp in it a year and a half ago took care of that. I'm pretty sure one of the issues with it was that it would not turn off with the ignition.
Easy, just get an Optima Redtop or Yellowtop. These are the best batteries especially when not in use during the winter. I am using the same Redtop since 2008 and i never maintain it with my charger during the winter. Only before i take the car out i hook up the charger for a very short time because it is "OK" in no time. These AGM's are top notch. Ofcourse it is always best to maintain a battery with a charger (especially lead-acid batteries) but these AGM's can go without for many months.
Thanks for all the input guys. My red top still had a year left on the 3 year warranty when I returned it today. Advanced Auto have me a new one at no additional cost.
I buy generic AGM group 24s at an outfit in Seattle called "budget batteries". They are basically unbranded Interstate. Not cheap, but IMO worth it and no problems starting. I did have one that mysteriously died before it's time... Paying a bit extra ($50-75?) to get an AGM is worth it to me in light of all the other $ spent and much less off-gassing therefore less corrosion.
I've read that Johnson Controls was making the old battery. I was happy to get ten years out of it and that was with it always on my Tender or Minder, the car otherwise being driven about once every ten days during that decade. That battery was emitting only about 200 cca when I sent it to battery heaven. Would get just a couple revolutions out of it but that was just enough with a properly tuned 455, even hot. I finally caved. Costco is charging about $109 for flooded and $179 for the AGM in the same group.
It would be interesting to see if my 98 Riviera battery lasts 10 or 11 years, like the first 2 Delcos, but I won't own the car that long to see. It's a big ass battery.
I just bought two of those in Group 65 size (also monstrous). One's in my 05 F150 and the other is in my Taurus SHO. I'm struggling to make them go more than 3.5 to 4 years. The Taurus eats batteries like tonight's dinner. This time around I researched and found that Ford does make a battery blanket for the Group 65 (and other sizes) but didn't install on the Taurus or the truck (don't know why). I bought the blanket for $25 and figured why not give it a try. The upper Sacramento Valley is hell on earth for batteries. Heat is the killer and the last two summers were particularly notorious. I kept one of those batteries rather than core it; topped off the water and have had it on the reconditioner now for about a month. CCA now nearly 500, up from about 200. I'm considering it a spare; but no way it would fit in the GS.
Yeah, the 98 Riviera battery is shielded from excess heat and cold being under the rear seat. They look brand new when they give up the ghost, even after 10 plus years. Maybe that is why they last so long. My Costco Interstate battery is over 3 years old, so out of warranty. So far so good.
