1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice
New users Registered with a gmail address Attention All new Users 67-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recast Group buy

Balancer removal help

Discussion in 'Wrenchin' Secrets' started by jfmoore79, Nov 27, 2010.

  1. jfmoore79

    jfmoore79 Well-Known Member

    I know this is going to be so basic but I have to ask. Can the harmonic balancer be removed without removing the large (1 1/8") nut on the end of the crank?

    Im trying to tear down a junkyard 455 and I cant get the motor to turn over. Its down to the balancer, then the timing cover, and then I can remove the pan and internals.

    I cant get the large nut to turn at all. Ive tried impact wrenchs and breaking bars to no avail.

    Thanks for the help!
     
    jfmoore79, Nov 27, 2010
    #1
  2. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Sorry, the bolt has to be removed. A six point socket, breaker bar and a three foot piece of pipe is your best bet. They're usually torqued somewhere between 200 ft-lbs and infinity.

    Devon
     
    DaWildcat, Nov 27, 2010
    #2
  3. flynbuick

    flynbuick Guest

    An impact gun will remove it in just a few seconds.
     
    flynbuick, Nov 27, 2010
    #3
  4. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Guessing he either needs a healthier impact, more CFM or both.

    Devon
     
    DaWildcat, Nov 27, 2010
    #4
  5. rack-attack

    rack-attack Well-Known Member

    Ain't that the truth
     
    rack-attack, Nov 27, 2010
    #5
  6. flynbuick

    flynbuick Guest

    Even a cheap electric gun from Harbor Freight will do the trick.
     
    flynbuick, Nov 27, 2010
    #6
  7. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Apparently not in his case, unless he forgot to hit "reverse".

    Devon
     
    DaWildcat, Nov 27, 2010
    #7
  8. jfmoore79

    jfmoore79 Well-Known Member

    Ive got a 1/2" air impact wrench and an 18" breaker bar...no luck with those...guess ill be hunting for a 3' piece of pipe next!
     
    jfmoore79, Nov 27, 2010
    #8
  9. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    So now you can use the old backyard trick. Use a breaker bar, short extension, and socket. Prop the end of the breaker bar on the floor (drivers side). Crank the engine using the starter motor in a short burst. Works every time for me.
     
    LARRY70GS, Nov 27, 2010
    #9
  10. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Larry, the engine is frozen according to the OP, and perhaps not in a car.

    Devon
     
    DaWildcat, Nov 27, 2010
    #10
  11. jfmoore79

    jfmoore79 Well-Known Member

    Correct, the engine is on the stand. I had picked up a 76 and a 73 that were complete carb to pan and Im trying to take the best from each to build one.

    But Im all ears for new tricks :)
     
    jfmoore79, Nov 27, 2010
    #11
  12. Jim Weise

    Jim Weise EFI/DIS 482

    Two hammers..

    Set one against the bolt, and whack it with the other..

    Give it a few good raps, and try your air hammer again.

    JW
     
    Jim Weise, Nov 27, 2010
    #12
  13. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Leverage is your friend. Secure the block/stand while you try. Another person onhand is a good idea, too!

    Devon
     
    DaWildcat, Nov 27, 2010
    #13
  14. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Sorry, missed that:Dou: If you can secure the engine to a stand, and have someone hold onto it, you should be able to get it loose with enough leverage. Good Luck.
     
    LARRY70GS, Nov 28, 2010
    #14
  15. rack-attack

    rack-attack Well-Known Member

    Just get a 4 or 5' pipe onto that wrench
     
    rack-attack, Nov 28, 2010
    #15
  16. steve covington

    steve covington Founders Club Member

    Soak that sucker overnight with PB'laster with the engine crank snout pointed up, and whack the bolt head a few times over the course of time (application, during soak, while using breaker bar). Use big breaker bar 3/4" or 1" drive with cheater pipe. Never had one fail on that .
     
    steve covington, Nov 28, 2010
    #16
  17. Ragtop 455

    Ragtop 455 Atlanta Driver...

    I just removed the one on my 455 last week with an impact wrench...
    The nut broke loose with 1 blast.... Mine is air powered but I have seen electric impact wrenches as well....


    :3gears:
     
    Ragtop 455, Dec 7, 2010
    #17
  18. jfmoore79

    jfmoore79 Well-Known Member

    I forgot to post earlier but I finally got it broken loose. 18" breaker bar with a 3' piece of pipe on the end and all the weight I could put on it. I was just hoping there was a trick but it needed some old fashion elbow grease!
     
    jfmoore79, Dec 7, 2010
    #18
  19. SteeveeDee

    SteeveeDee Orange Acres

    Naw, it needed some ol' fashioned TORQUE!

    Just went through this last weekend getting a crankshaft bolt out of a Dodge van to get some pulleys for my son's Dart. Had to back up the 3/4" breaker bar with an old bent driveshaft to keep it from skipping off the bolt head. The "kid" curls 120#, so I needed a lot of backup.
     
    SteeveeDee, Dec 7, 2010
    #19

Share This Page