If your tank is just dirty then clean it with: bbs from your kids gun carb cleaner and some trans fluid This mixture will break down the varnish... However if the tank is rusty then start with a new tank...
How does it behave when you go from Drive to Park or Neutral or Reverse when this happens? I had an ex who's 92 Buick would act as you mentioned above because her transmission was not downshifting to first when you'd stop at a stop light/ sign. It worked fine till it was up to temp. Ended up being one of the soleniods in the tranny. Drove perfectly at speed, but wanted to die at every stop. Consider the load on the engine if it is staying in 2nd or 3rd when you come to a complete stop. Drives perfectly fine at speed but can't slow down under 5mph without the car wanting to stall out.
Ok, I've been putting off working on the car for a while and happened across a Quadrajet from a 1978 Olds 403 that was a bit dirty but wasn't in terribly bad shape. I rebuilt it using my old throttle shaft (linkage at the end was mangled), main jets and primary and secondary rods, and she runs like a charm. Starts quicker, idles smoother at lower revs, and more vacuum at cruise. Also, idle mixture holes (where the idle screws poke through) are larger in the Olds carb, so I think this helps. Hopefully it will stay like this for a while. A question I have, though, is about the secondary metering rods. The Buick carb had big fat rods in it but the Olds carb had some skinny ones. I'm running the fat ones right now and it seems fine. Would there be any benefit to me switching to the skinny ones? I still have the stock single exhaust and my cam is rather mild so I'm not sure if it would be worthwhile. What is everyone's general opinion? Thanks so much!
