Hello Guys, need your help again. I need to install longer Wheel Studs on the rear axle. The problem now is, I have to remove the axle shafts, to get enough space to bring the longer Wheel Studs in. So here comes my question, how can I remove the Axle Shafts?? Is there anything important, to know/ to take care of when removing the axle shafts? Many thanks in advance, Regards Bastian.
I just did mine on my 64 riv or the weekend.Its very easy,unbolt the 4 bolts on the backing plate of the brakes.There is a hole in the axle face that will let you to take a 3/8 ratchet with a 9/16 deep socket to each nut.Take the inside axle retainer and spin it till the flat spot is on top so it will slide past the brake parts and i used a slide hammer.A couple of good hits with the hammer and out it comes.The hardest thing is making sure the axle retainers doesnt get hung up in the spreader bar of the brakes.
Thanks for your answer! I tried it already yesterday the same way, but I can´t get the beast out!! :rant: I just took the 4 nuts of the Outer Bearing Retainer (backing plate) off and tried it with a slide hammer, maybe the hammer was not big/heavy enough! Is it a problem to get the axle´s back in position? But i was not sure if the Axle shaft is secured in the inner side, so it´s definately only secured through the retaining ring?? I thougt it´s maybe necessary to remove the drive shaft and the hole rear axle... Thanks again, Bastian. :beers2:
Mount the drum back on the axle, but do this the other way around. Screw the lug nuts on, but just a few turns each. Now you can use the weight of the drum as a slide hammer.
yes its only the retainer ring.....mine came out with a couple of good hits of the slide hammer. To replace just slide back in and ingage the axle in the center section,you can feel it when slides in the unit.I used the baking plate bolts and nut to pull it all the way in.
i never thought of using the drum as a slide hammer,lord knows that drum can't be any heavier....great idea.
Thanks guys, i have it out! :beers2: I just welded an adapter and a puller together to mount a really heavy slide hammer. Great idea Erik, but i think there was no chance to get my axle out with this method, everything was really seized!! I will take a picture of my self made tool tomorrow. :TU:
I take it from your previous posts that your installing extended studs because your putting on wheel spacers. What thickness are the spacers? The further out on the stud you put a lug nut, the greater chance the stud has of shearing off. Ive seen wheels come off cars that had wheel spacers installed with disasterous results.
I was wondering about the same thing, especially because I know that the German TV inspection is very hard to deal with if your car isn't original, and even tougher when you apply for a classic car registration number....ou:
I've looked at several options on pushing my wheels out to and deffentlly think its better and a heck of alot safer to use the alum block spaces with new studs built in to them!! They are not cheap but neither is sheetmetal when the wheel comes off.
The thickness of the spacers is 15mm on each side, about 0.6 in. They are made out of aluminium alloy, with a centering from the drum side and a centering into the rim (@Erik: I have a certificate for the spacers, they are not selfmade) . I ordered the wheel studs from oldbuickparts.com, the are normally used for the front wheels on my car, because the rear studs are about 1/4 in shorter than the front studs. so they are not really longer than the original ones, but long enough to fit the Astro Supremes with these MAG LUG NUTs and the spacers. Will take pictures when the wheels are off. Regards, Bastian.
When the lug nut is at the base of the stud, there is only one shear plane. By locating the lug nut further out on the stud, your introducing a second shear plane since there are two sets of surfaces to clamp. The bending load is no longer applied to the base of the stud. With a spacer of over 0.5, the bending and loads will exceed the best 7/16" wheel stud there is. Its really not a question of if the tire will snap off the car, just a question of when and how bad the damage will be. Take a picture after it happens so we can see.
I still can't believe that your spacers (forbidden in most European countries) have (or will get) German TV approval.
The thing I dont understand is, here in Germany the German "Car Inspection Authority" called TV is really hard, but they sell here in Germany for nearly every car Wheel spacers with longer studs up to 25mm for each side with an certification for street legal use. I really appreciate that you want to advise me, but Im driving a 13 year old daily driver BMW and there 20mm Wheel Spacers installed since 8 years. And i know a lot of guys, driving spacers with longer studs since ages. So I can only hardly understand, why this should be so critical. And when I use Block spacers as buickbob1 said, there are as well 2 shear planes. Regards
@Erik: Here for example a German Seller for standard Spacers with TV: http://www.hubtraum.de/shop/autotuning-shop.html?spurverbreiterungen.htm www.h-r.com Bought mine from: www.schippan-spurverbreiterung.de o No:
I know that they are legal, I've heard and seen it before on American cars in Germany. It's just that I can't believe that German TV (world champion nitpicking when it comes to cars) allows something like spacers.
Oh yes i know, most of the german TV guys are crazy. For example, when you want to put here in Germany new wheels on your european or german car, there are mostly only standard sizes available with a Certificate. So in most cases there is no other possibility than using spacer. You just get a Certificate which is called "ABE - Allgemeine Betriebserlaubnis" with your spacers and then there is no problem to use them.
