Hi all!! I am in the final stages of getting all my parts together for the auto to manual switch in my 1972 skylark. I have all the difficult parts like the speedo, column and pedal box. now I need a trans. I wanted to go Muncie 4 speed and then later possibly add a gear vendors overdrive. I am a little nervous of going straight to a 5 speed. I think that there would be a little too much cutting for my taste. which trans would be better.... a closed or wide ratio Muncie? I have 3.42 posi rear in it and no a/c. it is a 455 car. does anyone think that it would be easier going straight to a 5 speed? I priced a set up out and it looks like around $4K. I have a lot of stuff for the conversion already. I went to kiesley (spelling?) and priced one of their perfect fit 500 hp trans and that is about what it came to. I also want a nice clean install and figured a Muncie would be a minimal hassle install ( if there is such a thing ). and where would you all recommend me getting a rebuilt Muncie from? thanks john
if you do a 5 speed you get a nice shifting tranny under power and 5th as overdrive, the kiesler tranny is suppose to go in with no hump mods. i am using the richmond super street 5 speed and the trans hump needed alot of work and i believe the same is true of the tremec trannys too?
If it were me, I'd go straight to the OD trans. All that work for a 4-speed? There are a number of options to get a 5-speed in there without cutting up the trans. And putting in a GV would require some pounding of the tunnel also I believe. It's a big chunk to be hanging off the back of a th400. I put a 200-4R trans in my car and couldn't be happier.
An overdrive 5 speed would be sweet, something like the Tremec TKO would be great. As far as the Muncie goes, im using a wide ratio in mine because I have 3.23 rear gears, and wanted the lower first gear. You have a bit lower gear so im sure you could go with an M-21 or 22.
I used to use these in my Regal. If your on a budget, its a nice option. Don't let the bell in the pic scare you, they eventually came in reg GM pattern http://www.classicjunkyard.com/new_process_a833.htm
I had a 86 K10 Chevy with that 833 in it. From what I understand they are quite strong. I will say in my opinion, first gear felt pretty high. Of course that was in a truck where you wanted a lower gear. I will also say that I have only seen 2 Chevy trucks with that tranny in it, and only one was 2 wheel drive, so finding one in a bone yard likely wont be that easy.
I would research the torque ratings on any transmission candidate. I love low 1st gear ratios in a stick, but, the lower the 1st gear, the more breakable they become. Some torque ratings are reduced with the lower gear selections and noted in the catalog literature. High torque rated trannys simply last longer, and none are cheap to fix when they break.
A close ratio Muncie would put you at 7.52 first gear (2.2x3.42). A wide ratio would get you about 8.61(2.52 first) or 8.76(2.56 first). I have a close ratio with less than 500 miles and a fresh rebuilt 2.52 wide ratio. If you were to hook up good a few times you would probably twist an input shaft or maybe something worse. I would love for you to buy one of mine ,but suggest you look into a trans that would handle the power of a Buick. If it is just going to be street driven you could get by with a Muncie or Borg Warner Super T10.
Now I'm curious about this transmission. Are you saying you can buy a bell housing to fit a Buick 350? Apologize if I'm thread jacking. Will everything else bolt up with an automatic to manual conversion kit from parts place or Dave kleiner(sp)?
The transmissions themselves came in the same bolt pattern as to fit the same bell a Muncie or T 10 would. The front bearing housing/ input shaft housing has to be machined down, but that's simple. My former Regal still has an A 833 in it. Its behind a SBC now, but I used to run it behind a SBB.
I see, so you could get a Muncie bop bell and it would bolt right up? Could you elaborate a little more on the machining process?
Its just the simple matter of unbolting 4 bolts, removing housing, and take it and the bell to any competent machinist with a lathe. O, the normal bolts wont fit after that. You have to get 4 socket headed capscrews.
Check out the auto gear m22. Stronger than a t-10 better case better gears can handle a lot of power.
I thought that a Muncie was one of the strongest gm trans of that time period. I am 40 so I was not around then and have no reference points other than lore. would a T-10 be better? john p.s. would the swap be easier with a Muncie/T-10 swap or with the tremec perfect fit 5 speed. I am guessing that the Muncie /T-10 is easier.
Auto Gear M22- W is good to 600 ft lb torque. Stock t56 is about 450 T56 magnum is about 700 Original muncies about 350 if close ratio only. Old Muncies may last if used with standard street tires only.
Kiesler RS 600, heres my thread.http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?248085-Kiesler-rs600-auto-to-manual-convertion
I got a quote from kielser and it had all the stuff added to the price. I have a buick pedal box and pedals and most of the linkage from original buick big block cars. would you use this original stuff or theirs? I think that their stuff is all chevelle stuff which may not fit. it has everything from bolts to drive shaft. the trans hump is from a chevelle-1968-72. so I would then go with the 64-67 chevelle like all of you have used. I was going to get the small number of stuff that I am missing, as far as linkage goes, from "the parts place". what do you all think. I also have a buick bell housing. should I use that or their new one? john
i would only buy the tranny from them, they no nothing about Buick. For example thier parts guy, thought that all BOP 455 were all the same. this is so common, it didnt bother me, Mr. Kiesler has developed a wounderful transmission for our cars. I would buy from them agine. FYI , along with the tranmission, i got the yoke, clutch disk, presure plate and throwout bearing, speedo cable and gear with my kit.
