Those gears are overkill. You'll compromise your highway driving and gas mileage with gears that steep. Keep it somewhat respectable with 3:42 max. But what do I know, I'm not a teenager, I'm just some old guy.o No:
Agreed. It will be a PITA on the hiway with anything more than 3.42 unless you go overdrive like I did. I went from 2.78 stock pegleg to a 3.90 posi and overdrive and the car drives vitually the same as stock on the hiway. This is an expensive swap to do correctly however.... Good luck. Brian
Ok, well I was going to go with a 700r4 so I can have overdrive, but im having a hard time figuring out how I can get it to attack to my motor. I will go with 3:42 when I finally do it since it I wouldn't have enough to the gears and the tranny at the same time.
wilcap or transmissionadapters.com have adapters for BOP to chevy bolt patterns. BUT i would just suggest a 200r4 instead, as it is A LOT more straightforward with the BOP boltpattern already, among other things.
If it was me i would do a 3 inch off the manifolds and if you choose headers down the road you just cut the headpipes to fit the headers.If backpressure is an issue it can be regulated by the muffler that you run remember hot air is lighter so as it cools it moves slower so big tailpipes is a plus to me.I only like to do and pay for upgrades once so built it for the finished aplication.Performance wise i think 21/2 would up to to the task no problem its your ride whatever you do have fun with it. Jamie
Pure Bull. I run cutouts on my car and pick up 2-3 tenths compared when open compared to going through my 2 1/2 inch system. If you are building a serious Hi-Po 350. 3" is a must.:TU:
As i said before, i am doing almost the same thing. I started the process last week. Taking the engine apart and whatnot. I am as newb to buick as anyone, without this site it would be at the shop gettin fixed and i would have no knowledge of buicks. I dont know if it would help you any but you should check out my thread about my cam, intake, carb, lifter swap- http://v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=160648&page=3
Well, recent developments have made me decide to spend my return on suspension and steering components. I was on the freeway today and my car started catching the little grooves a lot easier like one tire was going one way more easily than the other. This happened to my electra also and it turns out that it had worn out tie rod ball joints. So im going to just rebuild the suspension on the skylark so i dont have to worry about it in the future. New shocks and springs, 1 1/8 sway bar, new tie rods and all new bushings.
Good idea! many people spend cash on go fast parts without making sure the brakes or susp. are up to the task.
Yea good job gettin the suspension done I had my front end rebuilt a year ago. March 16th I will be rebuilding the rear end I just got a posi out of a 68 riviera and I am doin four wheel disc conversions with a sway and some no hop bars. I really hate it when a mustang pulls up to me and just takes off and I cant do it because I dont trust my old drums .
yeah, despite the weight difference between my skylark and my electra, the front discs on the electra defintely make a difference in stopping. that and i need to bleed the skylark again cause i just did the brakes about two weeks ago, and i havent gone through again to get the rest of the air bubbles out.
