Okay, well, I got a hold of an older '77, (a bush find) and the body and interior is in decent shape, so I'm looking to restore it. Unfortunatly when I boosted it, it wouldn't even turn over. I had hoped that maybe it was just the starter, but after trying the starter by itself, I've concluded that its the pistons that are jammed up. I'm pretty sure it wasn't overheated and seized, because the car ran when it was parked in the bush, and the oil never leaked out, so I'm pretty sure it's not rust. Any tips on what to use to loosen up the pistons without pulling apart and re-building the engine? (It's got a 350 by the way)
I would say it is corrosion which is rust. You can squirt some Marvel Mystery oil in ther and let is set for days. Then use a breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft nut with the plugs removed. Likely this is just a short term solution.
Be sure to oil the valves as well. If the pistons are stuck, it's likely a valve will hang up in a guide when you get it running. You can bend a valve easy even turning by hand with a breaker bar. The ring seal after this will be very poor (engine will smoke), but may improve to OK over time. I'd probably tear it down and put rings in it, or source a different motor.
Yeah, I've been looking for a crate motor or something, but I figured I'd see if I could fix this one up for cheaper than a brand new one. No harm done if I have to replace it I guess.
MMO or ANY oil to break the stuff loose. You could pour in the the spark plug holes or down the intake. WD-40 might help too. I wouldn't pump that classic oil thats in the crankcase around if you are serious about this engine. Change it out too...CHEAP stuff. You may need a breaker bar on the crank bolt, to break it loose, (the engine) or you might toast the starter/starter wires. All of this depends on how serious you care about this engine. ElectraJim
Right now I'm just trying to get it to move. as soon as I do, THEN I'll worry about wrecking something.
There is also a chance that the engine is seized at the crank so if all else fails just change the engine.
i have rebuilt several frozen engines. Personally I dont think that any form of ''loosening'' it up is a good fix, because it doesnt correct the real problem, corrosion. i have loosened some up but the rings remained stuck down and those engines pumped oil until they were broken down and rebuilt. You can loosen some engines like Jim said above, but be ready to rebuild. for crying out loud, dont pour anything that is not oil based into that engine. You will not fix anything doing that. Diesel with some oil mixed would work, the famous MMMoil, or auto trans fluid. something like that. However nothing works better than just pulling the heads and removing the pistons.
Some guys I've known for a long time use a concoction of MMO and Kerosene. Can't tell you how many engines they've freed up that way. Mostly tractors. Let it sit for several days, then take your breaker bar & socket and rotate as much as you can clockwise, then counter-clockwise. Refill cylinders, let sit and repeat. Main benefit, IMO, is to make it easier to disassemble. These guys would actually get the engines running in most cases.
If you have a way of warming the engine up to operating temp or slightly more, that would help the situation, I would think. Park another veh. next to it , connect the heater hoses, take the thermostat out of the engine that is froze up and let the ''jumper '' engine warm it up. Or connect to the hot water tank in your house. A warmed up engine should be easier to turn.
Now THAT is a neat idea! :beer There are also magnetic oil heaters that stick on the oil pan. I use one everytime I have a rebuild, engine is open, or begining of season first start. I leave mine on overnight. ElectraJim
Thanks for the tips guys. I poured farm diesel in the pistons and it loosened up a bit I think, now it moves verrry slightly. I figure the diesel just needs a bit of time to work its way farther in, so I'm going to try to move it again in a week or so with a pry bar. Hopefully it should be all loose by then.
I attempted to get a stuck engine going in a BMW 320 many years ago, I got help from a helicopter mechanic who suggested diesel too.
Ive broke a bunch loose with a mix of half brake fluid half ATF, the ATf is high in detergent, and the brake fluid is a carrier,it wicks into places the the ATF normally wont, the brake fluid also eats paint and rust...be carefull. It works better, and faster than anything else i have personally used. Use real brake fluid not synthetic, when you mix the two together it gets milky, i put it a spray bottle and squirt it in....
Marx-I think the brake fluid can be pretty good as you state to act as a carrier to help 'wick in' the ATF. One thing tho I learned from a fellow board member not too long ago-is that ATF have no detergents. I always thought so, too-for many years, but it's just one of those 'legends'. A very good lube, but transmissions have no combustion event to need cleaners-just very good lubrication-FWIW
I will be realistic here, There are several suggestions here that will work for a penetrating lube, Just dont under any circumstances use any thing that also has water in it, or acid in it. [rubbing alcohol, cocacola, vinigar, ect] They will only do more damage. Once the engine is broken down, pure simple green will do an excellent job of cleaning grungy parts by soaking them over night and then scrubbing with a brush. You may loosen the engine but be ready, some of the rings will most likely be stuck down by corrosion. The ones that are will pump oil. There is only one way to correct this problem. Pull the rod/piston out and physically r&r the stuck rings. Ditto on the aged and hardened valve seals. I wish I could be more optimistic but experience dictates otherwise.
