Aluminum heads: Studs or bolts?

When using TA aluminum heads (Stage 2) what fasters should I use, bolts or studs? I've read that with bolts you don't have to remove the rocker shafts to retorque the heads. What are the other pros/cons?

 

studs vs bolts

If you have power brakes you can't remove the head on the drivers with studs.I have a set of almost brand new ARP head bolts :grin: Chris

 

Nice avatar pic there... ?? Whats up with that? Is that that actually you?

Looks like that fella fell out of the ugly tree and hit every branch on the way down...
any way for what its worth, there are a couple of different options available to you. Here is one option, a pic of a Stage 1 SE Head with studs installed for the header setup. Pretty darn tight for the original assembly and install.

PS. Just Joshin ya Buck Wheat... p

Here's a pic of my set up before the header install. :grin:

No hard feelings eh? :moonu:

 

Chris,
I don't have power brakes. Okay....you know what's coming next......go ahead.....how much? I'm gonna claim you as a dependant on my taxes!! :laugh:

Graham
That's me AFTER the reconstruction surgery! :laugh: I was much uglier before!

 

Are you sure about that? It is pretty easy to spin the studs out with my fingers, then the head should pop right off... (the studs need only be finger tight into the block)

Of course for me, if I am getting that deep into the engine then it is just as easy to yank the motor (<2 hours by myself). But I still think the heads could be pulled very easily.

-Bob Cunningham

 

Can studs be torqued with the rocker shafts in place? From what I've read the bolts have smaller heads for this purpose.

 

I have made plenty of power with both, studs are better but i dont run them in a street car to much of a pain, rocker shafts are only a few bolts..

 

What made them a pain? I had them in an Olds motor I had. They weren't too much trouble, but I didn't have aluminum heads.

 

Because you have to pull the studs if you want to pull the head in the car. And they don't just come out with your fingers once the engine has be run.

 

How difficult are they to get out once it's been run?

 

Rod had put slots in the top of them so he can uses a screw driver to get them in and out and still has a hard time with them. the slots help out a great deal, but it is a real pain.

 

Aren't they supposed to be locktited in to better spread the load between threads?

 

You could use a threadlocking compound, but you'd have to have them all torqued before the stuff sets up.

Devon

 

You're not supposed to bottom them out either.

 

Reynold,
The newest ARP studs have an allen socket head so they are easily removed.

 

WOOOOOOOOOO! I'll have to check into that! Who carries them?

 

i have always had better luck with studs on aluminum heads. the arp instructions say to just put the studs in the holes hand tight, thats all that is needed. more clamping force with studs anyway. arp studs can be bought through jegs or summit.

 

Check with TA and see if his new stock has the allen head, they should if they are ARP.

 

Here is some eye candy for you Reynold.

Here's some pics of your new heads. I found myself falling behind so I had to hire a head guy. His name is Jason and he is 7yrs, with a bright future ahead of him........Chris.

 

pic 2

pic 2