Alum.Drums won't come off?

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by Harry, Aug 9, 2005.

  1. Harry

    Harry The Hammer

    I want these but they won't budge. Obviously still shaky from prying :laugh:
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    Poor Wagon has seen better days
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  2. Harry

    Harry The Hammer

    Tried that
    I'm assuming they're rusted on and that probably means N.F.G. I soaked em down with weasel-piss and still won't budge
     
  3. Blaze333

    Blaze333 Craig B.

    Go back in a few days to let the (weasel piss) do its thing. Try using a a 4 lb hammer to beat them off but use a short section of 2x4 to cushion the blow and keep from damaging the drum. Will the drum even turn? I cant believe they would be frozen unless the drums wont turn.
    The only other thing i can think of is to use monkey piss. (works much better than weasel piss.) :eek2:
    Good luck!
    :confused:

    Oh hey...what that thing got for a motor? Is it any good?
    What year wagon is it?
     
  4. I had visions of you holding a weasel over the drum trying to coax him to pee..a monkey might be easier :Do No:
     
  5. oPh

    oPh Well-Known Member

    Beat on them, you risk chipping the back edge of the fins. First learned that on alum rear drums :(

    The last set of GS alum drums I pulled would not come off either. Ended up popping the spidles off, then lugged the loaded "hubs" back to my back porch outdoor workbench & carefully took a cutting torch to the backing plates. First one took close to 20 minutes to get off, the 2nd one, about 10. Its fun, just be careful, have the water hose handy!

    BTW, am looking for a source that can reline the A-body alum front drums, have a another pair that is out of spec... anyone?

    Roger
     
  6. Harry

    Harry The Hammer

    Craig it's a 68 sport wagon with a 400 and who knows when it last ran but the motor is still in it.
    Going to try one last time to beat them off and if that don't work,they stay.
    Need more weasel-piss :laugh:
     
  7. Blaze333

    Blaze333 Craig B.

    (weasel piss) I think you can get some in New Zealand at Bulmer Harvest.

    WEASEL_PISS
    :beer
    :moonu:
    :laugh:
     
  8. GStage1

    GStage1 Always looking for parts!

    Harry,
    I would get that cross member for the trans. That is the same as the one found in conv since the wagon has a boxed frame. While you are at it, check for the factory reinforcement bars that go from the front of the lower rear trailing arm to the front of the upper rear trailing arms.
    Also, get the "Accessory UP DWN" switch from the dash. That is the same as the conv top switch.
     
  9. oPh

    oPh Well-Known Member

    Save your big hammer for swinging at the picklefork... if the entire hubs (drums & spindles) won't come off in 20-25 minutes a side, one needs more practice :grin:

    Basically, to pop '64-72 spindles will need following wrenchs:
    3/4", 7/8", & 5/8"(?) for tie rod end nuts
    lineman pliers work great to yank out the cotter pins & cut the dryrotted brake hoses.

    Went through the stuck (rear) drums scenario again this AM. Just typical deal when partscar has been setting outside forever. These rear drums were not pitted & original dated Kelsey Hayes, so I could not risk chipping up the edges.. Both were good dates for fellow Judge restorer, & best of all they both turned out THICK. Using lightweight alum bottle acetylene torch setup, I cut rectangular hole on both backing plates down low, cutting the star wheel adjuster mechanism... both drums popped right off. About 10 minutes a side! Similiar deal up front, just better to keep the torch work for at home, that field looks might dry! Nothing worse than catching a yard on fire (been there) Good luck!
    :3gears:
    Roger
     
  10. GStage1

    GStage1 Always looking for parts!

    Ohhhhh, Roger was so close! The tie rod castle nuts are 11/16" not 5/8". :Dou: :laugh:
     
  11. 2manybuicks

    2manybuicks Founders Club Member

    can ya tunnel under that thing for me and see if it has a passenger side mirror? :laugh:

    -- Steve
     
  12. WE1

    WE1 Well-Known Member

    alum drums

    Harry:
    Will the drums turn? Try backing off the adj. nut. Many times if the drums are worn it will create a small lip and with the shoes behind that lip it makes it pretty tough to get the drum off. By backing off the nut and bring the shoes back and you may get the shoes to clear and it'll slide off. If not removing the entire spindle is the best idea. And do what George said, get some of that other hard to find stuff, cross member, dash plate with up/down switch, etc...
     
  13. Harry

    Harry The Hammer

    Bang the drum all morning

    :Brow: I got em off,what a battle.Ended up beating on a 4 by 4 piece of wood aligned on the drum.The shoes stayed with the car and the hubs are now my next project I'm gonna soak em in more weasel piss :laugh:

    George,I got the crossmember,no reinforcement bars,I didn't even look like it originally had them?,and the switch from the dash?By the way George your site is great ,between it and the board almost all and any Buick question can be answered!! :beer

    Steve,Sorry no mirror :ball: ,I managed to rock the pig until it rolled back over on it's frame and did a ground search :laugh:

    The rest of you guys a big thanks to you too!! :beer

    I took some wagon stuff.I'll pay em forward if proven needed and NOT going on E-Bay!!!! If you know somebody looking send them here.
    I cleaned with soap and water,parts will be nicer with more effort.

    Taillights, one has hole in lens :ball: and paint splatter?also one is missing clear insides?
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    Decent Bezels :TU:
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    Accessory Switch,ugly cover
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    Also forgot to include inside mirror :rolleyes: good shape
    Later-Harry
     
  14. dcm422

    dcm422 Well-Known Member

    You may want to check the rear axle too. Stock Sportwagon rear is a 3.23 and could be a posi. Also, the axles are the same as used in the 66 Gran Sport and 67-68 GS 400. The bearings are hard to find and usually take out the axles when they go bad. Someone may be looking for them.

    Mark
     
  15. Harry

    Harry The Hammer

    Rear is there but missing an axle.Good tip :TU:
    100 posts :laugh:
     
  16. Mike Trom

    Mike Trom Platinum Level Contributor

    It does not look like there was a posi tag on that rear from the one photo that you shot.

    That car did not look like it was in that bad of shape before it was tossed on its side.. It looks like the brake booster still has cad plating on it.... How are the valve covers? I would like to find a rust free set that I can have chrome plated. I know someone else on this BB was looking for an air cleaner.

    You may also want to take the top sportwagon glass, I don't know if that glass is reproduced.

    :beer
     
  17. Mark is correct. the standard ratio in sportwagons up to 69 was 3.23. i dont know about the earlier or later cars but 68-69 sportwagons wont have the factory reinforcement bars that go from the front of the lower rear trailing arm to the front of the upper rear trailing arms. the floor pans block the area these bars would go through. i know because i have a 68 sporty and tried to bolt a set of those bars on the car. Bob
     
  18. dcm422

    dcm422 Well-Known Member

    Bob,
    You have a 3 seat wagon? I have a 68 SPW and 2 69 SPW's (1 parts car) 2 seaters and it looks like the bars will fit. Haven't tried to put a set on yet. Am suspecting that the foot area of the 3 seat wagons might get in the way. Guess I will find out for sure when I try. :Do No:

    Mark
     
  19. Mark
    my wagon is a factory 2 seat wagon but it still has the 3 seat floor pans. i assumed that they all came with that type of floor pan.. i could easily be wrong. Bob
     
  20. Joe Kelsch

    Joe Kelsch Eat Mo' Rats

    Don Eggers has a 2 seat 69 Sportwagon. I don't think it has any provisions for the 3rd seat. The second seat is split, but they probably all were. He just has a "tub" in the back with a steel lid that is carpeted. I'll talk to him tonight, maybe he'll stop by and talk about his wagon.
     

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