Alternator light stays on !

Great way to start the 2007 season - alt light stays lit, and engine dies when the battery is disconnected. Might be time for a new alternator? - thinking of converting to one with a built in regulator. Any tips, or specific instructions on doing the conversion in a '68 Riv ? I know I've read, or seen specifics on it somewhere, but eye can't remember where (. . . it happens when you get old !).
Thanks guys 'n gals o No: :beer :TU:

 

I did the same in my '71, it's not hard. Just wish I could remember where I got the wiring diagram.....

umm....can't find my notes at the moment...check out http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml, there's probably more info there than you want, but good to know.

ok, here's one of my info sources: http://www.buicks.net/techref/ftecref14.html

Here's another one: http://pw2.netcom.com/~gnenad/alternator.html

Hope this helps.

 

Randy -

There is a real easy test but you have to be very careful...

Disconnect the small plug at the back of the alternator. This is the plug to the brush assembly. Find the "F" or field terminal on the alternator.

Put your test leads from your voltmeter on the battery to measure the battery voltage. You should read about 12v. Leave them connected.

Connect another lead from the positive side of the battery. Use another test lead if you have one. You can use any wire, but you need a small pin connector at the end for the next step. (Keep the free end from touching anything)

Start the car.

Touch the free end of the test lead connected to the plus side of the battery to the F terminal on the alternator. This will apply a full 12 v to the field coil. On the voltmeter, you should see the voltage on the battery immediately start going up as the alternator starts to charge the battery. This is the careful part as it it not easy to do, especially if you have AC....

As soon as you see the voltage going up, remove the lead from the F terminal. You can do it again to verify, but don't keep the lead on too long as the voltage will keep going up. Try not to touch anything else.

This will tell you if the alternator is working.

Also, with the engine off, you can touch the same test lead to the R terminal on the plug to the regulator and hear the ignition coil in the regulator click. This will tell you if thats working. Don't try this if the regulator is solid state....

Reconnect the plug to the alternator and you are done.

- Bill

 

Thanks ! James - that's the info I remember, . . . and for the test info Bill, I'll check it out ! :beer :TU:

 

You know that you can't be sure it's a bad alternator unless you take it for a 100-mile round trip. If you make it home, the alternator is good.

The conversion is easy if you follow the threads posted above.

 

. . . or you got one great big mother energizer bunny under the hood ! :TU:

 

Here's all the info you need.

http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=57906&highlight=Alternator+swap

http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=44117&highlight=Alternator+swap

http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=116305&highlight=Alternator+swap

 

Thanks ! Brad - some excellent info in those links ! :beer :TU:

 

more:
http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/AlternatorConversions.htm

since i changed up to a 10si alt, all my lights are brighter.
make sure it's 'clocked' right.
have fun!

 

Thanks ! Howrad, looks like an easy, uncomplcated procedure ! :beer :TU:

 

or i can sell you one of these to keep your harness free of being molested:TU: http://www.v8buick.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86616&d=1169342209

 

Pretty shade of Green - Jamie is that wiring kit for a single wire conversion ? ( I want to retain the original alt lamp.)
. . . kinda like the idea of not having to bastardize the existing harness ! :TU:

 

not a 1 wire,its for the 10dn to 10 si conversion,yes it retains the idiot light function.plug it in,stuff the reg harness in the fender so you dont see it.add the plug at the back of the alt & go!!pm me if you want one:laugh:

 

GREAT IDEA, Jamie! After staring at the GM wiring diagrams for both alternators, I ended up making my own little jumpers and doing that same thing on mine (without the nice alternator pigtail adapter - I cut/spliced a new one in). Wish I'd have known about your doo-hickey a year or so ago... ou:

My memory may well be faulty, but iirc on mine I jumped the two outers together, and then the two inners together, unlike yours. Did they vary by year / model? (I'll doublecheck mine tonight).

 

James,no they did not vary by year.i just hunted these down a few months back after seeing everyone was cutting/splicing thier original harnesses.i understand you gotta do what you gotta do on a car but hacking wires on an original harness is probably the least attractive thing ive noticed on cars at shows...i just hate it,looks like s@*t:shock: nice detailed engine bay,pretty detailed motor,then half a dozen pink/blue crimp connectors with whatever color wire spliced in,wrapped with electrical tape....ughhhh!!!:af:

 

I'm with you, I hate a hacked-up wiring harness (used to work on MG's, for some reason the wiring harness was the first thing people would tear into). Ugh. It's amazing what a couple of dollars of solder, heat-shrink tubine, and a little extra time/effort will do!