1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

alternate qjet float height measurement?

Discussion in 'The Venerable Q-Jet' started by BbyCbra, Jan 15, 2004.

  1. BbyCbra

    BbyCbra streetfighter TR-6

    read somewhere that you can measure the float height with the bowl full by sticking a rod down the bowl vent. apparently there is a special measuring tool that rochester made.

    any idea of what the measurement should be? my float has gotta be way too high, i'm burning fuel like a mutha. i know i can go thru the std adjustment with the top cover off, but this would be a nice way to "field test" it first
     
  2. nailheadina67

    nailheadina67 Official Nailheader

    Float level isn't something that just changes unless someone took the carb apart and changed it.

    Excess fuel consumption can be caused by a number of things. Without knowing what you have, I'll generalize my suggestions.


    A choke that is not opening all the way is the most likely cause.

    Check your vacuum timing advance-it may be inoperative, cracked hose?

    Also, perhaps the metering rods are stuck in their bore-common problem with q-jets.

    The choke pull off may not be working.

    q-jets are famous for secondary well plugs leaking causing rich mixture. They make a repair kit for that.

    What is the application?:Smarty:
     
  3. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Mike,
    To my knowledge, you can't check your float level that way. If it was high, the engine would flood out. What you can check is the power piston. If you stick a small screwdriver down the bowl vent, you can rest the tip on the power piston. The piston is held up by a spring. This pulls the primary rods out of the jets, for a richer mixture. Engine vacuum overcomes the spring tension and holds the rods in the jets for a leaner mixture. When you stab the throttle, vacuum drops off, and the spring raises the piston, and the rods. If you put the screwdriver down the bowl vent, with the engine off, you should be able to push the piston down and feel the spring tension pushing it up. Then start the motor, and with the screwdriver in place, crack the throttle quickly. You should see the screwdriver pop up, and then drop, as the engine vacuum pulls the piston back down. The piston might be stuck in the rich position, or the spring may be damaged or the wrong one. This would give overly rich mixtures, and bad gas mileage.
     

    Attached Files:

  4. BbyCbra

    BbyCbra streetfighter TR-6

    i adjusted the float awhile back, and it seemed high at the time but it measured out. i remember making a fairly substantial bend in the arms and thinking that it was alot. since then the motor has run real rich

    its a stock 73 Century motor with the correct year qjet 4bbl thats transplanted in my jeep pickup. new choke pulloff and I've confirmed that the choke plate/hi idle cam step level system is functioning correctly

    Larry, thats great info and just what i was looking for, thanks. i'll do alittle testing with my screwdriver ala' your picture later today
     

Share This Page