1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

AED 850HO

Discussion in 'Other' started by Rossco, Jan 26, 2020.

  1. Rossco

    Rossco Greetings Earth Creatures

    I'm no carb expert, in fact this is the first time I've used a carb in over 40 years.

    I've got an AED 850HO bolted on to my fresh built 455. Worked fine during cam break in but on coming back to it today the front float doesnt appear to be working and fuel is coming out of the part circled in red below.

    Apologies for my lack of knowledge as to what this parts is called.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2020
  2. johnriv67

    johnriv67 Well-Known Member

    That part is the rear vent tube. Do you mean the front one? That means the float level is set too high
     
    Rossco likes this.
  3. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    Or there could be something stuck in the needle an seat, dirt, small piece of teflon tape. Best to remove the bowl, remove the needle and seat an verify and reset.

    Dont just assume it's only a float level adjustment

    Your carb appears to sight glass windows.....set float level about 25% of the way up the window.


    To remove the needle and seat just loosen the hex nut and turn it out......you adjustment level wont be effected....
    To adjust you need to hold the hex nut and loosen the jam screw with a thick bladed flat screw drive....then turn the hex nut..
     

    Attached Files:

    Rossco likes this.
  4. Rossco

    Rossco Greetings Earth Creatures

  5. Rossco

    Rossco Greetings Earth Creatures

    @johnriv67
    @Bens99gtp

    Thanks gents, turned out to be a stuck float needle, small piece of teflon wedged in there. Float level now set just under half way up the float glass.
     
    johnriv67 likes this.
  6. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    Love being right.......dont ask me how I knew teflon would be there
     
  7. Rossco

    Rossco Greetings Earth Creatures

    OK I wont...........nope still not going to ask............oh go on tell me!!!!
     
    johnriv67 likes this.
  8. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    Well......I dont normally use teflon tape, I use the liquid stuff.

    I was work on the 90 as truck we did a few years ago, putting a nice about 650hp aluminum headed 502 in. The customer very adamant about only using this blue color very thick tape on the fitting. He provided it and said he has had nothing but trouble with all other forms........the bypass regulator was pipe threads so 3 wraps on each fitting per his very specific instructions.

    About a week later after he gets it back he has your complaint, so I drive the hr to his house, pull the needles to find both full of blue tape that clearly got cut during the install.

    So a quick clean up, and he was back underway
     
  9. Schurkey

    Schurkey Silver Level contributor

    Teflon (PTFE) tape has NO place in a fuel system; or an oil system. If it doesn't shred and cause problems when installed...it'll shred and cause problems when disassembled.

    God Bless Loctite/Permatex "PST", Pipe Sealer with Teflon. The important part is that it has an anaerobic chemical like a thread-locker in addition, so that it HARDENS (not just "dries") in the absence of air. FANTASTIC stuff. There's multiple versions: "High heat", low strength, slow-setting, etc; and they all work. The three most common are #565, #567, and #592. 592 is the easiest to source around here, and generally costs a little less than 567.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KKTH...olid=2VLYZKC3HBBDO&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
     
  10. Rossco

    Rossco Greetings Earth Creatures

    Interestingly I didn't use PTFE tape, I used loctite.

    I'm assuming the Teflon came from the fuel line which is Teflon lined
     
  11. Schurkey

    Schurkey Silver Level contributor

    Steel-braid-over-Teflon (PTFE) liner?

    Stray pieces of Teflon are possible, but somewhat rare. Even more rare if the hoses are cleaned-up after assembly by blowing compressed air through them. We had a steel-bladed saw (think of a table-mounted fixture with a circular saw using a sharp, steel blade having no "teeth".) When the blade got dull, it would make more-ragged cuts with bits of rubber or Teflon left inside the hose.
     
  12. Rossco

    Rossco Greetings Earth Creatures

    Yes, it was a small sliver no more than 0.020"
     
  13. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    Glad you found it and was an quick repair
     
  14. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    That's what I like about AN fittings, no need for thread sealer at all.
     

Share This Page