A guide to building the lil guy. The Mighty 300

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by Joe65SkylarkGS, Oct 27, 2009.

  1. Joe65SkylarkGS

    Joe65SkylarkGS 462 ina 65 Lark / GN

    Well I think this thread is way over do.

    We 300 guys need your help. What can be done to this little 300 to make it perform and still run efficiently?

    I have a car equiped with one in it and will keep it in there where it belongs.

    So I'm asking for any and all input on making this small block stand up and be reckognized!!


    Thanks and please "Sticky" this thread.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 31, 2009
  2. there are performance parts available, you just have to look outside the box

    Joe
    I have been researching this lately

    turbo V6 and 350 pistons will fit a 300
    6" small journal chevy rods will fit and H beams are cheap
    TA's new heads are due soon and will flow as well as the aluminum V6 heads
    roller cams are made for the 215 and also fit 300-340
    Sanderson makes a very nice set of shorty headers
    distributors that fit 455 will work with a simple distributor gear change

    The short stroke and big bore with good heads and intake will make a killer combination as long as the airflow is there. I'm waiting for a quote right now on a procharger kit for a 300
     
  3. Nothingface5384

    Nothingface5384 Detail To Oil - Car Care

  4. 71skylark3504v

    71skylark3504v Goin' Fast In Luxury!

    Mark's single 350 turbo kit might be compatible with the 300.:Brow:
     
  5. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut


    Well there was a roots blown 215, however he is now using a 340. Either way a custom intake is needed... Some 300 info here:

    http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=120272

    http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=137973

    http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=139115

    There was a fellow who added a roots blower onto a Buick 350 using a stock intake and some adapter plates:

    http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=142707&highlight=blower


    I would go with a single Turbo and be done with it.
     
    Super Bald Menace likes this.
  6. 1967GS340

    1967GS340 Well-Known Member

    This is a good thread, if we can get the people with the know how to share.
    The little engine could put out 250 horse stock with a 4 barrel and get very good milage, so you know that it's got potential!
    Problem is that it was a short lived engine and there were better muscle options out there so not a lot of after market stuff.
    Fortunately we don't need a lot of after market interest, just enough of the right aftermarket interest! There have to be tricks from back in the day for better performance. It was stock in the best looking A body built after all!
    If there are no parts, then someone has figured out how to get the most out of it with what they could come up with.
     
    JimRamsey likes this.
  7. 71skylark3504v

    71skylark3504v Goin' Fast In Luxury!

    Oil pump is the same as the 350. Do you "need" to upgrade the oil system? Depends on your build I would think.
     
  8. jmos4

    jmos4 Well-Known Member

    Hi all,

    I am running a 300/ 4V in my Daily Driver 65 sepcial with a Poston 110A cam and it gets close to 20 MPH and has plenty of go for a 4 door and a stick helps

    these motors are highly under rated, but are great for a crusier/ driver

    I got the car from Brian Stone, who built the engine & I got the car from, so you may want to check with him as he has lots of knowledge onthe early cars, but I believe he said he was runnig 350 pistons in his 64 car and a lot bigger cam

    There was a guy a few years ago, I ran into ad the Buick show in Flint that ran a 64 special that ran 12's in MI believe he was running 4 10 gears and a TH350, He was selling the car I believe on this site back then maroon special so I appligize if I forget the name.

    good info and some $$ things to consider

    I did see a post for shorty headers for 340's a while back and imagine they would fit a 300 as with Poston gone no telling who will pick up that product line if anyone, hope someone does though

    thanks all for the info, and keep the little 300 going
     
  9. Big Matt

    Big Matt Well-Known Member

    Crower and Isky both make cams. I believe that Comp or Crane does as well. I built my '65 300 back in 1996, using a rebuild kit from PAW, crower cam, Poston dual valve springs, Poston headers, and edelbrock carb on a '64 aluminum intake. I reused the stock pistons, but if doing it again would probably use Jeep 258 pistons and custom rods.

    You CAN use the 64 intake on the later engines, you just have to block the exhaust "cross overs" in the heads, and port match the intake if that bothers you. The crower cam grind was #50232 and I was really pleased with it. I'm debating using that cam or #50234 for my next 300 build I'm planning for this winter.

    I think the biggest thing is knowing that these engines need specific (early) items like lifters and pushrods and making sure that you get the correct parts; and not the later 350 stuff that won't work as a direct bolt on.
     
  10. calvdog45

    calvdog45 Well-Known Member

    My 300 has a stock 2-barrel intake like most 300's. What would be a reasonable price :dollar: to pay if you find a 4-barrel intake? That would be a simple upgrade for most. Iron or aluminum.
     
  11. 64G-lark

    64G-lark Well-Known Member

    Great thread. Thanks Joe for intiating. I bought my car with the intentions of an engine swap, but I have come to love the 300 and decided to keep it. Its a great Lil' engine. Mines pretty much stock for now other than an Edelbrock 500 CFM carb. Im anxious to see someone try the new T/A heads on one.

    T & D has roller rockers.
    3.8 turbo motor has a larger oil pick up that I understand works. Isky and Crower both offer solid and hydra. cams. MSD has distributers.

    Who made the full length headers for Poston?
    How hard would it be to get a roller cam. Would 3.8 roller lifters work?
    Stroke it using a 340 or 350 Crank?
    Could you use the 3.8 turbo exhaust by adding one extra pipe to each side? I would think we could borrow alot from the expertise of the 3.8 turbo guys.
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2009
  12. Big Matt

    Big Matt Well-Known Member

    The 300 main journal diameter is 2.4995" while the 340 (and 350) main journal diameter is 3". I don't know if the bolt centers are the same or not. I suspect that they aren't though. But since the 340 and 350 share the same stroke I don't see what this would gain you. :Do No: I considered turning the mains down on a 340 crank to stroke the 300 but am not sure if that would help that much. I don't have any actual test data, but the desktop dyno shows no real benefit to that long a stroke on my combination 300. It did show that a custom stroke of 3.65 (1/4" over stock) would be very impressive. But I don't think I have the $$$ for that.
     
  13. Joe65SkylarkGS

    Joe65SkylarkGS 462 ina 65 Lark / GN


    Great questions Mark.

    I allready have the bbb in a 65 and want on. I can daily drive.
    Well kinda.

    Looking forward to getting some good info here.

    Still waiting for some expertese fellas.

    Cleareances, distributor upgrades? Plug type?

    Dress up pieces?

    (please sticky this thread).

    Well when we get some good technical info maybe?
     
  14. roboteq-1@hotma

    roboteq-1@hotma 76 T Top

    I like the idea of Marks single turbo. He can design a setup for you so that you retain your A/C etc. It would be different from all the other upgrades, but if you know someone who has a Grand National or a Turbo T - con them into a ride.
    until you open the hood and count 6 plug wires yourself- you will doubt- after, you will be a convert. Effortless seemingly endless power, sounds that will make your nads tighten up, sounds that will confuse and scare the ricers as you blow by them:Brow: . Turbo Power is amazing. Turbo power on a V8 is ( can be ) insane. And your car will start, idle and drive normally until you mash it, then there's no need to hang on cause the only place you are going is straight back into the seat. Talk to Mark- your motor need not be super high buck, you can use the stock heads, other posters already found solutions for affordable internals, run a mild 8~10 pounds of boost and you'll be a boost junkie for life!!:3gears:
    Robert
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2009
  15. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    Offenhauser finned valve covers for a 215 are avail. About $200.
    Late model Rover V8 valve covers should work too.

    Yeah, that thread has me thinking too! I love turbos. The power surge is very addictive. Now I'm thinking of building a turbo'd 340 to put in my old 79 Turbo Regal.:bglasses:

    Anyone know what Rover V8 parts will swap onto a 300/340?
     
  16. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    Matt, everyone else on this board will tell you it can't be done.
    Well, I've done the swap too.... So that makes two of us that have proven it CAN be done.:beers2:
     
  17. 1965Buick

    1965Buick Well-Known Member

    Any one tried the rebuild kits from eVilbay? I've seen them on there from basic to master rebuild kits and the price of course is dependant upon whick kit you buy. Falcon Sales and Maddog Racing both have kits across the spectrum. Also just saw a 300 4 barrel intake for 295 :dollar: !!
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2009
  18. Big Matt

    Big Matt Well-Known Member

    I'm glad that there's someone else out there who agrees with me. I guess the problem is that I did it before there was "the internet" to say that it couldn't be done.
     
  19. D-Con

    D-Con Kills Rats and Mice

    now that is funny!

    My brother just ordered a solid lifter cam for a 300 from TA, so yes, they do have them. Someone should condense this down to a single post when there is a good chunk of info and I will sticky it in the SB forum.
     
  20. 64G-lark

    64G-lark Well-Known Member

    Heres a article on a stroked 300. Full Article with pictures is here

    http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/MonsterMotor.htm

    Buick Monster Motor
    (originally published in British V8 Newsletter, Volume X Issue 3, September 2002)

    by: Kurt Schley

    Over the years, a few MG V-8'ers have installed the aluminum head 1964 Buick 300 engine into their cars and have been pleased with the results. The '64 300 is not a whole lot heavier than the 215, while providing 85 more cubic inches and gobs of torque. (The 1965 and later 300's have much heavier cast iron heads) For those who speculate about such things, there was always the question: "Would a Buick 350crank, with its very long stroke, 3.85" vs. the 300's 3.4", fit into the confines of a 300 block, yielding a large displacement but still relatively light weight engine?"

    Dave Michel, who has been very heavily involved in MGV8's for many years finally decided to find out. He and 215/300 expert Dan La Grou, proprietor of D&D Fabrications in Almont, MI, discussed the feasibility and obstacles over a period of several months. Then Dave gave the go-ahead to build the engine and Dan promptly began preliminary mock-ups of the combination.
    It was discovered early on that the chief problem was going to be providing sufficient internal clearance for the relatively large Buick 350 crankshaft to be able to swing freely inside the confines of the 300 block. Testing of mock-ups revealed that there were three principle areas of interference:

    1) The connecting rod bolts on four cylinders would not clear the camshaft. Careful measurements and precision grinding of the contacting bolt heads finally allowed the connecting rods to swing past the cam. Slight additional grinding then provided a sufficient safety factor to make sure the bolts and cam did not meet, as internal dimensions changed when the engine heated up and from centrifugal forces when under power.

    2) The ends of the connecting rod bolts on the front two crankshaft journals were hitting the inside of the oil pan. This is the area in the front of the engine where the oil pan is shallow. Note: The shallow area of the pan actually extends further back than the illustration. Reducing the length of the bolts by grinding provided the necessary clearance. The bolts were not ground as far back as the nuts, so there was no reduction in strength.

    3) The largest obstacle by far was that the leading edge of the crankshaft counterweights would not clear the bottom edge of the slipper-type pistons. Careful measurements revealed that an area 0.025" high X 1" X 1" long wide had to be removed from each piston skirt and pin boss per Figs. A & B. After laying out the areas to be removed using machinist's dye, the skirts were ground. The counterweights actually interfered with only one side of each piston's skirt. However to keep each piston in balance, aluminum had to be removed from both sides of each piston.

    A late Rover "intermediate" front cover was used. This cover incorporates a compact and highly efficient crankshaft driven oil pump, as well as an improved water pump design, while still retaining provision for a conventional distributor. It was used chiefly on the Rover 4.2 and late 3.9 Rover engines.

    The 4.0 and 4.6 Rover engines used flywheel triggered electronic ignition and their front covers will not accept a distributor. All later Rover engines, 4.0, 4.2 and 4.6, drive the water pump, alternator and all other accessories with a flat serpentine belt arrangement which rotates the water pump in the opposite direction from the earlier Rover and the 215/300 pumps. The Monster Motor was fitted with custom brackets and billet aluminum pulleys designed by Dan LaGrou.

    The motor will soon be installed by Dave into an MGB. A report on the engine's performance will be forthcoming.

    Engine Specifications: Displacement: 348 ci
    Bore: 3.790"
    Stroke: 3.85"
    Block: Buick 300
    Crankshaft: Buick 350
    Heads: '64 Buick 300, ported
    Intake Valve: 1.720" dia.
    (Stock Buick 300 = 1.625")
    Exhaust Valve: 1.496" dia.
    (Stock Buick 300 = 1.313")
    Valve Springs: Crane 99849
    Head Gasket: 0.040" thick
    Lifter: 896
    Rocker Arm 1.6:1 Buick 215/300
    Camshaft: Crower 50232
    Piston: 258 Jeep
    Rings: 5/64", 5/64", 3/16"
    (Hastings Moly)
    Connecting Rod: Buick 300
    Deck Height: 0.040"
    Chamber volume: 46cc
    Compression Height: 1.630"
    Compression Ratio: 10.2:1
    Carb: Edelbrock 1404
    Primary Jet: 0.086"
    Secondary Jet: 0.095"
    Rod: 65-52

    Intake manifold: '64 Buick 300
    Ignition: OEM Delco w/ Pertronix kit
    Flywheel: Buick 300
    Pressure Plate: 10.4" Weber
    Clutch Disc: 10.4" Weber
    (1-1/8 x 26-spline)
    Front Cover/Water Pump:
    Late Rover w/ serpentine belt
    A/C Compressor: Sanden 508
    Starter: D&D gear reduction
    Alternator: Chrome one-wire
     

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