1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
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  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
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  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
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86 century heater core

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by memphis_skylark, Nov 3, 2003.

  1. Hey everyone,
    I know this isn't V8-related, but it's still Buick, and I was hoping someone might have a solution to this. I was suckered into replacing a leaky heater core of my friend's 86 buick century with the 2.8 liter v6. The part that gets me is, even with the car up on jackstands, from underneath, the hose clamps for the heater core hoses are very, should I say, blocked. I know for certain that I can not go from above, my hand just can't fit in a space that small. I think I can get to the heater core itself from inside the car, it's just getting those hoses off that's what I'm trying to figure out. Thanks in advance.

    Mike
     
  2. Scott King

    Scott King Well-Known Member

    You should be able to take the engine struts or dogbones loose and rock the engine forward about six inches. They have a hole in the bottom of them to put the bolt back in to hold the engine forward. Now remove the hoses from the top.
     
  3. Leviathan

    Leviathan Inmate of the Month

    Scott's correct, I had the same problem 6 mnths ago.

    I swear GM puts the heater core on a sawhorse and build the whole car around it :af:
     

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