8.5 10 bolt suggestions

Discussion in 'Got gears?' started by Buickcub, Jan 12, 2021.

  1. Buickcub

    Buickcub Well-Known Member

    Everyone, what are you using for new bearings and seals in this unit? I was looking on the JD RAce forum and saw where he was having trouble with bad bearings

    http://forum.jdrace.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=562

    I personally do the 12 bolt chevy rear even with c-clips we would use disc brakes in the back and that will be a c-clip elim effect so really c-clip rear will not be any issues with disc brakes.
    PLUS c-clip axles just seal really well and do not cause leak issues like the bolt in axles do.
    WE have had BIG trouble with the 8.5 rears not sealing good at the axle shafts. NEW or Used axles
    The bearings are garbage in the market for that axle system these days.

    Were taking the rest of the bolt in axle 8.5 rears and chopping the ends off and installing c-clip ends to solve this leak issue. tired of the calls...
     
  2. BrianTrick

    BrianTrick Brian Trick

    I am still finding some National seals that are the correct width. Most of these companies are converting to one seal,to simplify production,and are making a width in between the two. There is also a variance of how deep the axle tube was bored. If it’s on the deeper side,you will need a wider seal,or a shim that is placed into the tube before installing the axle. What I do is mic the depth of the bore,withnyhe backing plate. Then mic the overall width of the bearing and seal together. If the bore depth is greater,use a shim. Otherwise once everything is installed the cone will unseat from the race,and the weight of the car pushes down on the housing,the shaft pulls up on the seal,creating a gap on the bottom side of the seal,which then lets oil leak out.
     
    techg8 and knucklebusted like this.
  3. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Brian,
    What is the most correct seal thickness? Is it .490". There have been numerous threads over the last decade I think of incorrect seals. .375" is the incorrect seal width if I remember correctly. This leads to excess end play problems/leaks. You build rears. We need some clarity on this. What is the average measurement of bore depth, and how does that correlate to needed seal thickness for the 2146/712146 seals?
     
  4. BrianTrick

    BrianTrick Brian Trick

    The 2146 is the thinner and incorrect one.
    The 712146 was .490,but they seem to be coming out at .460”.
     
  5. Buickcub

    Buickcub Well-Known Member

    Is .490 the desired thickness?
     
  6. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    So you would use a .030" shim. Where would you get that, and what are the other dimensions?

    Yes
     
  7. Buickcub

    Buickcub Well-Known Member

    Just to clarify is the .490 the overall thickness or just to the flange (does that include the flange. A friend of mine has some on the shelf, .470 to the flange, .490 including I could probably make some shims if needed
     
  8. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    It's the physical width of the seal.

    http://forum.jdrace.com/viewtopic.php?t=414
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2021
  9. Buickcub

    Buickcub Well-Known Member

    ok sounds like a friend of mine (Teddy) may have the correct one!
     
  10. monzaz

    monzaz Jim

    There still might be stock floating around of TIMKIN made in Mexico boxes. The Tawain seals are Junk set9 they are .470 or thinner. :(
    Look for OLD STOCK.
    Or if you can find old stock axle bearing NON TAPERED bearings then it will not matter at all what the seal thickness is as there will be NO up down play only in and out end play like a c-clip axle does.
    So we all though c-clip axles were bad...lol. Whos the joke on now??? lol.
    If you use disc brakes on the back pf any c-clip axle rear ...THAT IS AS good as a c-clip eliminator.
    Do not fear the c-clip rears. That is why we still use them to this day.
    JD Race
    Jim
     
  11. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    Interesting view on the caliper bracket and or caliper itself holding the axle in if it broke.......never thought about it that way b4 but so true
     
  12. Buickcub

    Buickcub Well-Known Member

  13. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    They don't, that setup is for when the bearing eats through the harder outer axle there and starts making lots of noise....you can move the bearing and seal to a new location rather than buy new axle..........its a bandaid not a great fix......the bearings in a semi float setup do carrier a decent vertical load.......now your bearing is just few thousand press fit
     
  14. BrianTrick

    BrianTrick Brian Trick

    I always joked with the Mustang guy’s about the rear discs are your c-clip eliminator.
     
  15. monzaz

    monzaz Jim

    WORST ITEM EVER DESIGNED...LOL.
    If your axle is compromised and they are talking about wanting stronger 10 bolt ....They are defeating the whole purpose.
    You are using axles that should be replaced.
    The bearing saver was NEVER, never designed to save a HOT ROD driven car axle. Maybe a A-B go to work and back car :) . It is to save money for a reason...CAUSE you do not HAVE ANY.
    If you have a Fast Hot Rod, you need to buy a NEW upgrade better alloy axle shaft, with a NEW axle bearing and seal and then you solve the problem and add strength to the rear.

    THAT is a totally misleading article
    IT IS NOT AN UPGRADE by any means. It is a Low grade fix to keep your car running enough to get it to the JUNK YARD.
    Please guys do not use these Bearing savers. Fix it correctly for your own safety sake . Buy an axle shaft and get the correct bearing and seal installed.

    JD Race
    Jim
     
    Max Damage likes this.

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