Hey I got an issue with my 73 century. My timing is way advanced and I need to retard it. Problem is, I don't see a damn clamp nut on the base of my distributor! So I can't turn my distributor to retard the ignition. Help anybody?
The clamp is directly between the distributor and the engine block. If it is gone, and the distributor is stuck, it is quite a chore to break it loose. I have a post here about that; it happened to me. Here: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=87546&highlight=stuck+distributor Is there no clamp?
Yeah, I was fighting with that bolt the other day on my 73.... The later 350s have the bolt on the pasenger side of the dist but the 73 has it on the drivers side where you can barely get at it. I think I used a 1/4" drive 9/16" or half inch socket with a swivel. Use a flashlight to find it, its there just hiding. On my later engines its no big deal but I was cursing the 73 that day! Oh and show us some pics of your car, and checkuot the video of my 4 dr 73 in my sig!
Shoot we'll I'll take another look at it. It's REALLY hard to get to if it's still there. Thanks for the info tho folks. I'll certainly put up some photos when I get a chance.
Damn. Found it. That thing is a pain in the ass to get to. Oh folks I got another one for you. Is there anything special I need to bleed the brakes? Or am I just running the routine as usual? And I have some high pitched squeaking when I turn the steering wheel while driving. Anybody got some more help fo me?
its a little easier to get to if you use a crows foot on an extension. Brake bleeding- Just make sure all the bleeders are free. Just out of curiousity, why are you bleeding the brakes? Squeaking noise- Power steering belt loose? check to make sure the belt isnt glazed or shiny on the sides. Also check for dry rot. If it is, mind as well get all new belts because they all have to come off anyway to get to the power steering belt
Now that you mention it the power steering belt it loose. For the brakes I got air in the lines. Not liking how the brakes go to the floor before they kinda slow the car down.
It goes straight to the floor? Im going to assume both side of the master are still full? You may have a bad master cylinder or a leak in the hydraulic system. Its a closed system, so there's no way for air to enter normally
After doing what? The light is on because there is a difference in pressure between the front and rear brakes
My kid brother attempted to bleed the brakes. Caught him before he could do too much damage. He just did the left rear wheel. Told him not to do so. What should I do? Pumping the brake pedal a few times gives me some brake now.
It also came on when the pedal went to the floor while braking hard. It also just went off on the last outing I made.
Well, if bleeding the one wheel helped, try doing the other three. Make sure to keep checking the level in the master as you bleed them
And your driving it?? Until your brake problems are resolved, my best advice to you is to NOT DRIVE IT! God forbid you have to stop short or aviod something or someone in the road. Don't say it cant happen. I hit a pedestrian last November.
Yea when it clears up again im gonna give it a shot and don't worry I haven't been driving it. Thanks for all the advice. You have been really helpful.
Well the brakes are taken care of. Thanks Buick64203. One more question tho. Is there a proper procedure for tuning up the rochester two barrel I have or no?
You will need a vacuum gauge. Sears sells them . In a nutshell, there are two mixture screws on the carb. You adjust them to the highest vacuum reading. Always remember when working on a car- If it's not broken, don't fix it. Do yourself a favor, buy a factory 73 Buick service manual. Its invaluable source of information. It's money well spent.
