hey guys, been reading threads here and other places for weeks about front coil removal, how dangerous it is etc. my springs are very old and tired, and the shocks were destroyed and leaking. finally popped the ball joints apart today, with everything chained off, and it went ok. however, these old springs still don't wanna pop out of their pockets, and seem to have a pretty good amount of pressure in them, even though they are sagging a lot. was considering using 2 chains to attach either end of the spring to each control arm, and breaking out the sawsall to cut out 2 or 3 coils in the middle. since each half would be chained down this would not be a problem...however since this is the first time I've don'e any suspension work at all I have my reservations. what do you guys think? I bought both kinds of spring compressors, internal and external, and neither are of use. internal style seemed to fit well, but the threaded rod would not fit thru the upper shock hole and so wont work. external style seemed awkward and were far to tall to fit. would appreciate any advice, weather here is finally getting decent and I would like to break out the skylark again.
Re-attach the ball joints and cut the springs with a torch in a couple places, disconnect the ball joints and voila...hunks of smoking spring on the floor!:TU:
You need to figure out how to use your spring compressors, you can't install new springs with a torch.
Never gonna cut thru a spring cause its gonna bind blade, as long as shock is out the lower arm should drop far enuff provided its not a drum break car With the backing plate still in place as the arm will catch on it, most the psi is off so put pry bar under spring and work it off if its got a chain thru it its just gonna make noise not shoot off like a rocket like some peoppeople seem to think, i always drop chain thru spring leaving it loose enuff to not have psi on it take nut off, i repeat take nut OFF not just loose ototherwise its just gonna spin the stud when it has psi on it, with nut off either go ahead and pop control arm will sledge hammer or use pickle fork , if you want a little extra protection place jack under control arm with 3in off room for arm to drop on
When reinstalling locate spring correctly in its seat up in the frame or on the lower control arm Take zerk fitting out of lower ball joint and jack up on lower arm in the most outward position your jack will allow the jacks with the 4raised teeth work better as the will catch on the groove beside ball joint ie more leverage, if car has no engine in not enuff weight wrap chain under jack and over frame or hook to upper control arm there at the cross shaft this method requires a some what special lenghth chain with two hooks
it is a drum car, I got the disc conversion sitting here that's mostly why I started the suspension work. didn't think about the blade binding up. I have both arms wide open with the whole drum assembly off, everything came apart smooth. the car is up real high on jacks and the lower arm is still about 6" from the ground. will try just prying on the thing tomorrow before I try cutting. the springs I bought are moog hd springs, was told they are shorter than long stock ones and will install easier. but I still don't see how the internal compressor can work unless the upper shock hole is bored out some which I don't wanna do unless necessary.
Assuming you have the spring secured to prevent a lethal rocket and the ball joints are fully separated from the spindle you should be able to use a crow bar on the lower a frame and move the a frame down until the spring falls out or is loose enough to wrestle out. Sometimes the bushings on the A frame are really stubborn but with the right leverage they will move enough to let the spring come out. :TU:
thanks much guys. I really need to get the bushings replaced while im at it so i'll loosen those bolts up too.
I actually have removed and replaced the front springs in my gs three tines and have used a spring compressor each time.
Inside spring compressors go up through the bottom, you need either a super deep socket or use a bunch of spacers in order to tighten it enough to release the pressure. And, the car needs to be on a lift.
If you have 6 ton jackstands you can get the car high enough to remove the coil spring. I used an autozone internal spring compressor and had no issues. A little nerve racking trying to get it free but if you are using a compressor you should be safe, a chain doesnt hurt though. I did this over a year ago when I did my disc brake conversion and I can't remember the specifics. I'll be doing it again if I decide to keep the small block since in my infinite wisdom I put BB springs in ou:
I did not use a lift but jack stands. I purchased the inside spring compressor unit from autozone. I did have to shorten the bolts a couple of inches. I used an impact gun to tighten the nut onto the bolt with no problems.
Do NOT retighten the control arms until job is complete, sitting on the ground and bounced a couple times. Then crawl under it and tighten control arms. If tightened while off the ground, the bushings will rip out when dropped to the ground. The suspension must be at normal ride height.
