72 GS Stage car help

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by mineseats9, Aug 2, 2003.

  1. mineseats9

    mineseats9 Gold Level Contributor

    I finally got a real job a few months ago and am ready to move up to a GS. Would you believe that a co-worker saw the Stage 1 sticker on my tool box and said "I got one of those Stage 1's at home." Next thing I know I'm looking at a fairly sraight and complete 72 Stage 1 4 speed. It has very light rust in the front fenders and rear quarters. Floors and trunk are solid. The car is well used,but better than most cars I've looked at.He says he bought it back from a kid he sold it to years ago who "blew it up." He thinks a rod is thrown through the cylinder wall. He has hinted that he wants around $3500 for it. The motor code is WS and the heads are 1238148. Options seem to be: air,p/b,man. steering,tach,rear defrost,black int.,lt. blue paint(looks original),can't remember if it had a vinyl top or not. I think it seems like a good deal,but would like a little advice. First, what can I do to get an idea of what's going on inside of that 455? Second, what else should I do to make sure everything is original (i.e. numbers or codes)? Thanks in advance for any and all help.
     
  2. 70lark

    70lark Well-Known Member

    Marco should be chiming in on this soon. $3500 !?!?! That would be a steal. Snatch it up...... Quick!
     
  3. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Guest

    Have the VIN Sloan Documented!

    Brian,

    If the car you mentioned is what you say it is, do like I mentioned above and have the VIN # documented by the Sloan Museum, in Flint, Michigan.

    The board's resident Stage 1 guru, Marco, has a website here that should answer most of your questions about the Stage 1 cars and he also includes a link to the Sloan Museum. It usually takes about a week and all you do is send them your VIN, on line, and pay via credit card. Once you do that, you will know whether or not it's the real deal.

    The "WS" code engine is the correct code for the 72 Stage 1 cars and the first SEVEN digits of the VIN should read: 4G37V2H, 4G37V2G or 4G37V2Z , depending on where it was built. H is Flint, MI, Z is Freemont, CA, and G is Framingham, MA. The fifth digit HAS to be a V for it to be a legit Stage car. Should the seller be right and the block be shot, well, 455's are still somewhat plentifull and you'd obviously have to replace the engine.

    Now, I'm pretty sure the VIN is stamped on the block in the front, behind the power steering pump, or in that general area so you might want to get a flashlight, some WD-40 and a rag and have at it.

    Assuming the correct Rochester Q-Jet is still there, which I doubt, but weirder things HAVE happened, the # stamped on the driver's side of the carb should read: 7042242 or 7042942 . Either one of those number's is correct for the 72 Stage cars. Also, the correct distributor should read: 1112016 .

    As far as the Muncie 4-speed goes, it could either be an M20 or an M21. Mine is LONG gone but I know the VIN is stamped somewhere on there.

    I think that pretty much does it as far as what you'll need to look for. I was always under the impression that Stage cars came equipped with power steering. You said manual, which is possible, as I stated before, weirder things have happened. But I would definitely have the VIN documented, providing you're not in a rush to buy and the seller's not in a hurry to sell. It's DEFINITELY worth the $25.00!! Once you get that you should be good to go. Then,:Brow: , you can have board member Mike Trommetter whip you up a nice window sticker like this to show off your new ride.

    Hope this helps and GOOD LUCK!! Keep us updated and post some pics when you get a chance!! :TU: :TU:
     
  4. mineseats9

    mineseats9 Gold Level Contributor

    stage 1

    The VIN is correct according to you're #'s Brett. I am going to have it documented ASAP and go to his place and check for the carb,dist, and block #'s. I'm also going to see if the 455 will turn by hand. Is there a better way to find out if this thing has serious internal damage besides pulling the whole engine? I appreciate the responses and hopefully I'll be bothering you all for help on restoring this thing right.
     
  5. 462CID

    462CID Buick newbie since '89

    Buy it and KEEP the engine even if you have to replace it. The numbers on the block will always match whether or not the engine is in the car. 3500 bucks seems like a nice low price for the last year of the A body Stage 1:TU:
     
  6. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Guest

    Once you do that,

    Buy! Buy! Buy!!!!!!!
     
  7. Rusty Davenport

    Rusty Davenport Silver Level contributor

    IF you pay by credit card for the Sloan info I think they will fax the info to you same day if you need it to veryify car purchase.
     
  8. Marco

    Marco Well-Known Member

    Re: Have the VIN Sloan Documented!

    Brett -

    While I am flattered by your compliments, many people here can forget more about these cars than I'll ever learn :Smarty:

    With that said, you have an excellent understanding of what Brian needs to look for :TU:

    Yes, Stage1 cars came with manual options. The standard options with the Stage1 package included a posi-rear and heavy duty cooling.

    The Muncie VIN is stamped on the passenger side of the transmission, towards the rear of the transmission. Alos there is a Muncie stamping which will tell you if the car is originally a M20 or M21.

    Here's mine that reads P0R28B. The 'B' is for M21.
    <img src="http://www.v8buick.com/attachment.php?s=&postid=153177">
     
  9. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Guest

    Well????

    Brian,

    Don't leave us hanging here....what was the outcome????

    :Do No: :Do No:
     
  10. mineseats9

    mineseats9 Gold Level Contributor

    stage car

    I have to get a hold of him still. I'm going to call today. I talk to him at work once in awhile about it and he assures me that he is in no hurry to get rid of the car. He is a Chevy guy for the most part,but he knows that Stage 1 definitely means something is unique about this car. I'll let you know as soon as I get in touch with him. Hopefully today,but probably early this week. Wish me luck.
     
  11. rex362

    rex362 paint clear and drive

    GOOD-LUCK...
     
  12. pglade

    pglade Well-Known Member

    VIN should be on the PASSENGER side on front of block behind the alternator area I believe...not the Driver side. Don't forget to look there if its not on the D side....you may have to remove some of the accessories to get a look at it. Patton
     
  13. mineseats9

    mineseats9 Gold Level Contributor

    no sale

    He says he wants to keep the car because the last time he sold it he regretted it,and he doesn't want to lose it again. He has two other chevys in the garage needing work so I'll keep working on him to sell it. I would just be happy seeing the car on the road no matter who has it. The search goes on.
     
  14. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Guest

    Make him an offer he can't refuse...

    Where's Vito Corleone when you need him??

    Seriously, Brian, I don't know what your finances are like but if I was you, I'd juice up my offer a little bit....

    Like I said, it depends on what you REALLY want to spend. Don't forget, if it is what you say it is, it's worth it!!!
     

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