I race a 70 GS 455 with a 7xr cam, Stage one valves 10to 1 compression and a 1050 Dominator. It's qickest time was 10.77. I'm thinkin about trying a 72 350 in a 83 Regal and wanted to know what budget pistons, rods, big cams, that will work without killing my wallet and run to 7000 rpm without breaking. Has anyone tried chevy rods and pistons that would fit without to much machine work? I would rather not do that but it's about the money. All help would be greatly appreciated. Any used parts out there for this? My videos on you tube are under Big Butz Racing. Website bigbutzracing.com.:dollar:
Unless you are looking to make over 550 hp I would go with 73-80 capscrew rods as they are stronger than the early ones. I would keep the revs down to 6200 or less unless you go with aftermarket rods. Plus it would be of little value to raise the rpms over 5600 because the heads run out of breath as well as the intake also fails to deliver over that rpms. The dual plane alum intake available is the same way, flat over 5600 rpms. If you want to do it on the cheap, have the heads ported, run a stock intake ported, and build a set of 2" primary headers. You will still want to shift under 6000 rpms with a dual plane intake. There is Johnny who runs a 10.5:1 350 (hyper pistons) with custom single plane intake and mild cam... He does have well ported heads and shifts at 7500 rpms. I had a custom sheet metal single plane intake built to match my very well ported heads, as well as the light forged rods and pistons. I plan to shift at 6500 rpms under boost for twin turbos. There is a fellow running SBC rods by eagle and he is in the low 12s NA right now and looking for high 11s. He shifts at 6500 rpms and the compression is about 10.6:1. To use this piston a custom piston was required, however for any good piston it has to be custom for the 350. BTW I saved a ton of weight per piston going with nice forgings, same with the rods much lighter and stronger. Eagle SBC rods Engine builder Brian Leibee used an off the shelf Eagle rod at 6.300 long and had Ross make custom pistons for the application, after slight machining this combo has been track proven reliable and the cheepest option so far for forged piston and rods combo:The rod used for the Buick 350 is the CRS6300SLW http://www.sciontist.com/ProductDeta...x?id=100005865 or http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...177&CtgID=8085 Just spoke to Troys Engine builder Brian Leibee and he said that it would be no problem to do another setup liek this for someone. The rods are VERY slightly narrowed, bearing tang moved and stock buick 350 bearings are used, the piston is custom made anyways so no problem to go with the SBC pin diameter. Info on the pistons again: The piston builder Ross Racing Pistons. Job card # off the order sheet was 115793. Should help speed the process of ordering. Waited about 5 weeks. Pistons are a true flat top with 4 cc valve reliefs. Engine builder Brian Leibee with Leibee Precision Machine,Phone# 307-362-5049. Tell him Troy sent ya hill take care of ya. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=139310&highlight=casper
Also keep in mind you can overbore up to about 90 thou depending on the block. Sonic check first! Yes this overbore opens you up to off the shelf chevy pistons from the early engines. Keep in mind there is a possibility to use the 6.300 chevy rod with a piston that gives a good compression ratio. As an added bonus the a possible SBC piston would reduce the amount of work required to make the SBC rods work in the Buick 350. :beers2:
How much compession is this combo? with the chevy rods and piston? what cam, are the stock buick rods 6.5 long? Installed is the piston to deck lower from the top?
Every combo is different, start by squaring the block and measuring your deck height. Stock rod specs. Center to center length 6.387" Crank pin Diameter 2" Big End Diameter 2.1250" Pin Diameter .9397" Offset .096" Max width at bore end .836" Rod diameter: SBC = .9272", and SBB = .9397 However if you are ordering a piston then just ask for a SBC pin diameter. If using SBC piston you could avoid that issue and save cash IF you could find a bore and dish combo that works for your engine. There are so many variables however I can say that Here is a general balpark since yes the pistons sit in the hole a lot on these engines and no there is no advantage to reducing the piston to deck height differential because it is an open head chamber design. Build what ever compression you want just be sure to check valve to piston clearance and add reliefs as required. Deck height 10.18" +/- 1.805"-piston compression height 6.387"-con rod length 1.925"-half of 350 Buick stroke of 3.85" Chevy 283 pistons here, note the 1.780 compression height on the pistons: http://cgi.ebay.ca/Chevy-283-Flat-T...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5b6a20e1 So you are looking at loosing too much compression if you go with the 283 piston and SBC 6.300 However you can use an Eagle 6.300 rod for about $580 after machine work and then order custom pistons with the part number I gave for about $800. I would call Brain and have him set you up since he has done this before with great results. If you are looking for a way to get forged rods and pistons for $500 you are out of luck LOL. IF you have lots of ambition and a buddy in the machine shop you could find a set of e-bay brand x rods and possibly set them up with some 283 pistons to get a good setup. One other option is the flat top pistons from a 3.0L Corp. GM V6 that have a lower compression height however are true flat top. Then you can add reliefs to the pistons as requred. If reading all this gives you a headache and it should LOL.... The call up Diamond and get some forged pistons based on our previous order, and call Hershe and get a set of the $1200 forged rods that are stock spec but way lighter and stronger. The diamond pistons already have the right valve reliefs for oversized valves and can build 9:1-10.5:1 depending on deck height and head CC.
Yea sounds like its just cheaper to build another 455 since I have a set of .030 over forged pistons and a set of ross flat tops. Any body need a 72 350 block, crank and heads, It was running when it got dissassembled.ou:
Why not just turbo the bitch??? http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=225104 Youll be king of the strip and king of the cruise in, and still have a "drivin to dinner car"... And with a calculated 3.X 0-60, I think you can win the stoplight thingy too..
I have been reading books about turbos and one of them talked about the benefits of nitrous with turbos! Since then I have been reading books about nitrous and learning how to properly apply the nitrous into the turbo engine. I am going with a direct shot of nitrous and extra fuel into the sheet metal intake runner aimed at the back of the valve. The carb will be a Holley Blow through and by using exhaust temp gauges in each 8 of the exhaust primaries I will learn which cylinders are burning at which temps and the nitrous will be jetted in order to even out the cylinder temps. A small shot about 10 hp to each cylinder will be used and some cylinders may require +/- 1 or 2 hp to fine tune. The nitrous will spray from WOT till the boost hits 7 psi at which the nitrous will cut out untill boost comes below 7psi AND I am on WOT. This is all possible with a simple cut off switch and relay, not much harder than the fuel pressure cut off that is also required for safe nitrous use. There are turbo regals running 50 shots and gaining 50 wheel HP off of them, turbos love nitrous.... I know a guy with a boat has a big cube twin turbo chevy. On the turbos it was 780 hp and he added a 150 shot of nitrous set to sut off over 4 psi and it worked great. The turbos were too large so the lag was noticable which is why they added the nitrous. The nitrous got rid of any lag as well as intercooling the charge! One day on the dyno he left the nitrous on and the hp went to 950 hp and a huge gain in torque in the 3000-5000 rpm range. http://www.nitrous.info/nitrous-with-turbos.htm
Sean.. Your car's gonna be so complicated, I don't know how you will ever tune it without a bunch of dyno time.. Trying to look at gauges, and indicator lights, AFR and such while pulling 1G or more ain't easy. I made 4 runs at the strip the other day and never looked at anything but the road..
Not sure, I was drinking beer and made some sort of GIF file.... :beer http://download.cnet.com/3001-2186_4-10002057.html?spi=e48c24bae83f680dc0bd65cbf7526475
I ran 11.81 with a 125 shot of nitrous. I ran a 12.0 on juice without even trying. 10.6 compression, forged pistons, 73 capscrew rods, ported heads with larger TA valves and only flowing 235-176. 502-507 cam 230-245 duration, 373 gears, 2004r trans with lockup 3000 stall. On the rwd dyno on the nitrous it was 425 horse and 465 ft lbs. Shift at 6000 rpm all the time. Ran the nitrous the past 5 years and the motor was built 15 years ago. At that time I had a TA 510 cam in and made 395hp from 5900-6200 rpm on a engine dyno, never ran nitrous with this cam, too bad I didn't. Since I did not have enough gear in the car I changed the cam to a smaller cam. I probably have over 500+ runs at the track within the past 15+ years. If you have ever gone to Norwalk to the Buick nats you probably have seen me there. Very durable motor.
I do not need to look at the gauges I have data logging software for that... I will be running the megasquirt computer even when using the carb. Some of the inputs to the computer are: Intake air temp Exhaust temps Throttle Possition Sensor (TPS) air/fuel meter on each side (LM-1 meter) I will be running a 2 step ignition and that will also feed info to the computer so I can see the entire run from the time I leave the line to the end of the track. I will be able to see what happens with all these variables as my 1/4 mile run progressed. Make changes run again and review the data logged again and make more changes to the carb, nitrous, timing etc. :beer Initial tuning on the engine dyno is what I hope to do.
YES, I have all but a couple of oil gally plugs in the block since I was getting ready to wash the block. You dont have a 10 bolt 8.5 g body rear end to bring with ya do you?
