Hi, just had my GS 455 released from it`s winter shelter and thought it was a good idea to clean it up properly. Had it running without issues for about 1 week, parked it in front of my office so I could shine it at lunchtime. Put on the 8 track, cleaned a bit, tried to start it and ...zero! First I had no board electricity whatsoever, no brake sign no 8-track-player no nothing. Thought it might be the battery , had a store around the corner, got me a 60 A 540 Ah fresh new one. Connected it...no cranking. Then I went for the HEI module as I had some trouble with one of those in the past, changed it...no difference. I could hear that little "cling" or "pling" sound when I turned the ignition key (once every try, like a spring being released...it`s not the sound when the starter solenoid ticks like tick-tick-tick), but no reaction from the starter whatsoever. By now, board electricity was back, the "Gen" sign when I would turn on the key, the power everything was working, also the headlights. Player, you name it. No obvious corrosion on the battery poles, car sits unfortunate for crawling under it right now for checking out the starter. You have any ideas (besides putting it in a better position to check it from underneath?). All help appreciated Jens
Definitely good battery then. If headlights and horn works, you are getting a good ground and good current. I would still check the various ground points, like the back of the motor to the firewall. Can you turn the motor by hand with a breaker bar and a socket to make sure it isn't locked for some strange reason. I would also check the current on the coil when cranking. It should read about 8volts when in on position and 12volts when cranking position. That might help eliminate the solenoid. Hate to say it but you are probably going to have to see if you can short the solenoid to see if the starter motor will crank or else get under it to check the start further. Good luck.
Sounds like the starter might be bound up? Here's a quick and dirty check- Have a friend sit behind the wheel and turn the key like they were going to start it. Get under the car with a hammer and give the starter a few whacks. The shock of the hammer strike should free up the armature if its stuck.
Hi guys, thank for your replies. I'll be checking out the starter first thing tomorrow to see if there's some loose connections and have my collegue starting it while I'll be smacking on that starter. Just have to find my way underneath, haha. Thanks Jens
So, here`s what happened this morning: car wouldn`t start by turning the key (tried again, could have been possible, no ? Would have been an easy fix, haha...), but instead I heard a cracking sound, and that key and the lock would turn without the slightest of resistance whatsoever...no electricity no nothing, plain dead. So I assume it was a cracked lock/ignition switch even before. And here comes my next big question: how can I get to the innards of that steering column? It`s an automatic, console shifter. To fix that lock and switch, will I have to disassemble the column, lower it, does that streeing wheel has to get off? I`m almost sure about that. I have a chassis manual and will make use of it but maybe somebody could point me in the right direction? Jens
It is located on top of the column, under the dash. Look under there for a big wide line of wires, that's it.
I had that happen on my last '70 Skylark. Wound up swapping in another column, rather than take it all apart & try to fix...
Bad battery connection? Universal battery terminals with the wire clamped into them are notorious for this issue.
Hi everybody, thanks for all your help and staying with it. @Steve: thought the same way initally, have this "srew-in screw out" neg.pole-clamp for being easy on the battery if it `s not being driven for a longer time...but like I wrote, the next thing happening was this weird " no-resistance" ignition-key thing...you can just go back and forth without any reaction, any restantance, nothing. @matt: that broken rod and rack-thing does not sound very cool to me...as I`m in Switzerland and our pick-your-part-yards usually don`t include 68-72-A-bodies, I might end up repairing it. @Ray: no, didn`t get to do it, I`ll let you know how it went on from here....(like your avatar pic, lime mist GSX, right?) Thanks, all the best J
Hi, I have a little side-question: since the Buick is stuck in P(ark) and the ignition key and lock don't work, can I overcome (unlock) this manually/mechanically? I'd like to move it to a better working space, sits in the open right now , rainy forecast these days. Thanks
If the key doesn't do anything, it sounds like the cylinder is not engaged. Is the steering wheel still locked? If it is, you'll have to remove the steering wheel and take the locking ring out to get the wheel to turn and the shifter to move. If it is just stuck in park, you can undo the linkage at the trans and shift it into neutral to move it.
Yep, locked steering wheel, the key is useless, doesn't do a single thing. So, locking ring off for steering, trans linkage off for shifting....right? Thanks for your support, appreciate it. Jens
That's about it. If the key cylinder will come out, you might be able to use a screw driver to start it and drive it. This video is a pretty good indication of what it will take to get to the lock plate AND further to the key cylinder.
That video is quite good, I need to see things, so much better for my understanding than a book page...thanks a lot. Jens
...and the winner was: GSX455-4ever....that rod with the teeth on it was broken in half inside the tilt steering column, no more action whatsoever....got myself a rack kit OEM GM 7844651, says it's for cars 1977-1995 but worked just fine. Thanks for all your help and pointing me in the right direction. Jens
Thank Jens . I must have done a 1000 of those over the years . I still have a few in my toolbox Is my prize on its way ????? lol
