Ahhh, it looks like im gonna need a frame soon, right where you jack the car up in front behind the front wheel right b4 it starts traveling in toward the motor, i stuck my finger thru it earlier, other side is starting to go too, hole is only about as big as a half dollar now, dangit, just as everything was gonna come together for it, wonder if the BB will break it in half if it gets stuffed in?
Try GSgil on this board. He might be able to come up with a '69 Special. He's out in MT, rust free stuff. Get the whole car if possible. Don't use a '68, way different. Jim '69 GS California
yeah hope he catches this, THIS SUCKS, im thinkin about just welding some 1/8 inch plate around hole to stiffin that spot up
3.8 Know what you mean. Mine got soft there also, picked up a nice southern car and was able to save my GS. How's the rest of the car, see your in the rust belt as well. Jim
I have a very nice 69 skylark with the front clip off it right now but I have no idea how to get it there Al
69 convertible body and frame I have a 69 skylark body and frame, (no front frenders or hood,grill etc. southern car, near atlanta rolling chassic. 750.00 del .possible thanks, john
yeah?, where is port orchard? ......i might think about it GA just not gonna have enought time til prolly 2 weeks from now to drive that far if i have to. My shell (as far as i have seen) is quite sweet. not a lot of rust at all, looks like it just got splashed up in that part of the frame where it starts to be boxed and didnt have anywhere to drain
im pretty sure it is the same, maybe someone can help out with info?? there was someone else looking for a frame here and someone listed the interchangability. the frame is solid but one of the body mount holes is a little bigger than the rest. i may be able to help with delivery too. i will pm you
sounds good man, i was looking thru an old book one of my buddies had and it was listing the different frame numbers used, i think it was like 1942 for 68 & 70 and then 1943 or something for a 69, but theyre all a-bodys, WHAT could be different, it listed a completely different frame for a 400-455 car, that should be a boxed frame, but even so, the shell should bolt right up im thinkin, the only differences i could concieve are maybe a different crossmemer location and maybe a possible steering box location or maybe even the length of the front frame horns for the grill, heck i dont know but id be willing to compare the two, definetly get me a way to get ahold of you man.
frame for you i have a 69 skylark special in pa i wil sell the whole car for 700 i have a title in hand also the body is rough but many other good usable parts you can pm me or email me at blainehess@hotmail.com i can send pics the is missing some parts but has power windows and other toys
68-72 A-bodies will have the same frames since they share the same chassis. The 70 455 frames were/are have thicker metal for the 455 cars. In 71-2 350 and 455 cars had the same frame. Duane can verify this info as I believe he has stated this before. I have swapped and helped swap many A-body frames from Cutlass to Skylark to LeMans. All fit with no problems. While you are going to get a frame, consider having it sandblasted and powder coated. I believe someone here asked a similar question and was quoted $400-450 to blast the frame, A-arms, rear trailing arms and trans x-mbr and then powercoat all parts.
Hey 3.8, George is right on the frame question. ALL A-bodies share the same frame. Differences will be, 2 dr vs. 4 dr (4-8 in difference), convertable (boxed), and station wagon/ElCamino. SO, get a 2 dr frame and get it blasted. As far as coatings are concerned, powdercoat is best ($$$), but I was able to do mine using a good primer, then following it up with Eastwood Chassis black. Krylon number 1613, semi flat black is also the same (color wise). Did my frame 4-5 years ago, no rust issues to date (25,000 miles). If you need to get ahold of me, e-mail to sailors@chorus.net or call me at 608-643-8962/608-963-4996. I can give you tips on how to pull the body by yourself, and other stuff. As always, work slow, and if it won't separate, something is still bolted down. Jim '69 GS California 455 Stage1/Muncie 4spd/3.31 12 bolt posi "Passes everything but gas stations"
We have an article on our site on body removal: http://www.buickperformance.com/body-off.htm If you don't have an overhead winch supports, you can use two engine hoists. Works using the same lift points as in the article.
Here is a pic of one resting on some 4x4s and cinder blocks. With a body completely gutted, the rear clip does not weigh much, I think it is 400-500 lbs. Going from memory when I scrapped out a rear clip at the salvage yard. While you have the body off, inspect fuel and brake lines from front to back for corrosion since your frame has it, your lines may have it too.
'68 Frame Difference "68 Frame is a bit different. It has a "Nose" on the engine cradle. We researched this before and it is different from the '69. "The difference is the '68 and the '69-'72 frames is the way the brake line clips were drilled and an extra tongue under the engine". The '68 may work, but look different from a '69-'72. Hope this helps. T
This is why i love this site, so much help guys thanks, so far the hardest part has been getting ahold of these people that say they have them, ive pmed both and heard nothing back yet, but im just being patient. I WAS having questions on leaving in the glass and doors when i took the body off but seeing that the buickperformance website has one hanging from a couple pieces of rope and the glass is staying in i shold be ok. The car is still sitting complete in my garage until i get something here and find out if THAT frame is good. I completely removed the interior looking for more cancer yesterday and the shell is in awesome shape, NO rust in the trunk, back floor pans or passenger side floor pans, drivers floor pan is missing a piece about 3/4 X 2 where the pans seem together and every other spot other than the top of the body mounts is in good shape, i have a feeling theres going to be some cutting going on to get the 2 bodymounts by the doors out but not a HUGE deal i guess, the part that sucks the most about this is that the entire part of the frame is in EXCELENT shape except the one spot where the C chennel meets the boxed part behind the front wheels, theres about half the C left, hillbilly instints tell me to weld in angle iron, but i want to do this right. Thanks everybody and if your interested check back, ill probably be posting pics and hopefully not having to ask to many q's but if i need to you are the guys i would like to ask...............now......SOMEBODY LET ME KNOW WHERE IM GONNA GET THIS FRAME!!!!!!!!!!! jus kiddin :Comp:
