Hey any tips for removing the engine with the trans still in the car? I don't beleive the Rivi's trans is mounted to the frame. I will repair gaskets and hopefully find an oil pan off another Riv so it will clear the frame. (center sump). I will re freshen the paint job cause the rebuild ppl did the most crappy job. The main reason is that I beleive My engine is seized. I was driving it to my appointment after running it for a while, temp shot up out of nowhere, and as I pulled in to parking spot it shut off completely, so i let the momentum roll me in the spot. It was super hot. The manifold paint chipped even more. A quarter was used as a block off plate for EGR on the manifold and even that turned a yellowish brown. Does this sound like a really bad thing? Complete rebuild again? It's only 3 years old with less than 800 miles. (The infamous 25 cent fix from my other thread) explains the block off plate
If your pulling both first thing to have is a trans plug so it doesn't piss stinky fluid all over, or drain it. Would need to lose oil to sieze up an engine so fast but thats only from my experience. Have overheated cars awful hot but from loss of water and never did any damage cross my fingers.
The tail of the tranny is bolted to a frame cross member. Nothing out of the ordinary though in pulling the engine. Remove the hood of course. Pull the radiator for that extra little bit of room. I like to wrap a baggie over the tail of the tranny so when you tilt everything tranny fluid doesn't run out the back and make a mess. Even if you do drain it first, it seems there is always some hiding inside. If you can get your hands on an engine tilter, it will make the job much easier. Have you tried starting it since?
I think its a little drastic to pull the engine because you merely suspect its siezed. Did you even put a breaker bar on the crank and see if it turns? If its free, it will run. The next question is why did it overheat? If you dont solve that problem, you might have the same problem with engine #3. As far as pulling it out- There is a small transmission crossmember mounted to the chassis that the rear trans mount is bolted to. That need to come apart. Engine cranes are great for testing the tensile strength of things you left connected. My best suggestion would be to get an engine tilter for your engine crane. It makes life much easier. I wouldnt even think about pulling an engine with out one.
I had a 289 '67 Mustang in my youth that I would pound the piss out of until it would overheat and seize up. Bad flowing radiator. After it cooled it would fire right up and the fun would begin all over again! :laugh:
Yea I know it's a bit drastic but I was going to try to turn it tomorrow b4 I attempt to pull it. The oil pan needs a new gasket and I will be removing the bumper and fender to go ahead and align them while the ngine is being worked on. I will also redo the exhaust and will lose the Factory AC if Not will also replace the leaking heater core which might have caused the problem. I will try to turn it though. I don't want to have to pull the engine! but hey, Upgrades!
Dale and I posted the same info a minute apart. Didnt notice till now. Funny how we were both on the same page
You might think about what you are going to do with the driveshaft. It will be extremely hard to slide the engine and transmission back into place while trying to get your hand in between the X-frame and the back of the transmission to hold the yolk in line with the output shaft. I'm not saying it can't be done, I just want you to understand it is dangerous to attempt it with the engine & trans hanging on a chain as you try to snake it all back into position. It might be better to remove the driveshaft first, or at least unhook it (don't forget the carrier bearing bolts in the middle) and slide it back out of the way until you can get the engine & trans into place. I have seen an engine and trans fall back into a car, and you cannot believe how fast gravity can slam it back in there. Having your hands in the wrong place at the wrong time can change your life permanently. If you do remove the driveshaft, make sure the wheels are securely blocked so the car cannot roll at all before you crawl under it. Be careful out there. Randy
Driveshaft is always the first thing I remove. I like to do all the under the car work first, then move to the top, since you will have to lower the car back onto the ground anyways. The last engine swap I did, before I eventually rebuilt my engine I did all by myself. Even wrestled the hood off and back on. This last time I removed the hood, I stood there thinking, "how the heck did I do that by myself before?" and promptly got the wife for help. Ain't that the truth! :laugh:
OK Guys thanks for the replies i'll keep notes of all the tip 4 when I need to pull it. Now I solved the problem! The Tach Wire ran too close to the top of intake manifold and got burnt creating a short! Now the problem is why is the engine a bit too hot for my likings? I think I have a small leak in the heater core also. So then this caused my condenser in the distributor to burn out giving no spark to the plugs! Another problem I found is that the distributor hold down thingy( I don't know the name) is a bit loose and you can actually move the distributor making the timing out of whack. I also replaced the coil cause I accidentally tightened the bolt on the top too hard and broke it off. I replaced it with an MSD one. Made new wires leading to the distributor and the coil too. PS New Pic In Avatar, The Rivi isn't 2 toned as before, no more gray and black! Muhahahaha! I will now buy a timing light and check that Power timing article! I want the most out of the 455!
HAha same here I also did that and those thing are heavy, I closed it down half way and slowly unbolted it, then since the front bumper was off I edged it forward and nothing was damaged except when I moved it, I had to but the bottom edge of the hood on my non steel toe boot and shimy into the garage.:laugh:
Done it a few times, take off all but one bolt, keep one hand up high so it don't tip forward and remove the last bolt, it will slide down but wont fall if you got the nose steady with one hand. I then slowly lay it back against the windshield. Then do it backward to put it on. Just have to be careful and man up as you can't half effort a hood alone. There is no try, do or do not
Well, it's very cool that you don't have to pull the engine. I swapped the one in my 68 many, many years ago and I have to say, it couldn't be any easier when you are pulling just an engine and leaving the trans in place. As was said earlier, jack the car up and do all of the under-car work first. Things like torque converter bolts, exhaust bolts, trans to engine bolts, motor mounts, etc. first then set the car back down on the ground. With the radiator out and the fan removed, there is a TON of room in that massive engine compartment to get everything done. Super simple once everything else is disconnected and unbolted from the engine. When you put the engine back in, don't forget the ground straps. If you don't reconnect them, you'll be chasing electrical gremlins until you get them reconnected or just give up and sell the car. Ask me how I know this... :Brow: I had the same damn wire short the same way on mine. There are some cars that have sparkplug wire holders that go over the top of special valve cover hold down bolts. If you can find or fashion some of these and run that tach wire so that it holds the wire up away from the manifold, the problem is gone. :3gears:
