1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

67 Wildcat Electrical issues

Discussion in 'Classic Buicks' started by ozamecnik, Sep 24, 2013.

  1. ozamecnik

    ozamecnik born in the wrong decade

    I recently bought a 67 wildcat 4 door hardtop from a friend. I only paid 950 for the car and it was a pretty good deal because its solid, and he did 70% of the body work already, and the original interior isn't too bad. He put an edelbrock 650 cfm carb on it and started it once but now it has no spark, it just turns over until the battery is dead. He claimed when I bought it that it was because the fuse box was shot, and it is, quite a few connestors are rusted completely away and the wires are hanging in some places. I don't know anything about the way these cars are wired so I need to know which of these wires/fuses would be blocking the ignition coil from sending a spark. Im also confused about the wires that go to the coil. He put in a new msd ignition so he did some weird **** with it. Theres an orange wire that comes out of the harness right about where the carb is, on the passenger side of the engine. it runs right along the valve cover, and he has that running to the coil. but theres also a red wire coming out of the same harness up next to the coil itself and that too is attached to the positive coil post. He also rigger one driect from the battery because of the bad wiring but that doesn't work anyway. As for the negative side it goes to the points and condenser, and another wire goes to the capacitor. But in the factory wiring specs I saw there seemed to be a brown wire running from that negative post to the fire wall into the fuse box, and there is a disconnected brown wire in that location. So any help with any of this would be greatly appreciated. Regardless it was a good deal in my opinion, but I would sure love to start her up. And yes incase your wondering I checked the coil, points, point gap, condenser, capacitor, plugs, and wires. so I don't believe it to be a simple tune up issue photo.jpg
     
  2. John Codman

    John Codman Platinum Level Contributor

    Rather then have a Mickey Mouse mess that will probably catch fire at some point, you need to find a new or good used fuse box and start over with the wiring. Get a service manual for the car and do it by the book. Depending on how badly the previous owner has screwed things up, you may need to replace the engine compartment wiring harness.
     
  3. mosslack

    mosslack Well-Known Member

    What John said. It's gonna have to be done at some point anyway, so might as well bite the bullet and get it done. If you haven't got one yet, you need a factory service manual. These are available for a slightly cheaper price if you get the one that has been converted to a CD like this one:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-Buick-...r:1967|Make:Buick&hash=item1e70c85be8&vxp=mtr

    I bought one for my '61 LeSabre and it was the best money I spent on it so far. HTH
     

Share This Page